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Molasses
 



Dry or dried molasses is a soil builing product made by spraying organic bits with liquid molasses. It is used to quickly stimulate microbes in the soil and give an indirect benefit of fertility. It also in many cases will run fire ants off the property. It should be used at 10-20 lbs per 1000 sq ft. It can be beneficial on acerage at rates as low as 100 - 200 lbs per acre.

The sugar level in quality dry molasses should be 42% percent vs the 38% and less that is on the market. The Stockade product contains the proper amount of sugar and also is a cane sugar base, which is the best.



Dirt Doctor Weekly Newsletter Ė Which Molasses to Buy?

Iíve gotten several calls recently about how to tell the good molasses from the inferior ones that unfortunately are on the market.  Hereís an update on the information in our website Library.

Dry Molasses (Dried Molasses)

Dry molasses isnít dried molasses.  Itís a grain residue carrier, such as bits of soy meal, that is sprayed and covered with liquid molasses.  Itís an excellent carbon source that stimulates beneficial microorganisms.  And, it repels fire ants.  Apply to soil for landscaping at 20 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. for ideal results.  Farmers and ranchers can use it at much lower rates and still get acceptable results.  As little as 100Ė200 lbs. per acre can be beneficial.  Apply when the air and ground are dry to avoid creating a sticky mess.  It cannot be mixed with water and sprayed.

The sugar level in quality dry molasses should be 42% percent vs. the 38% and less that is on the market.  The Stockade dry molasses products contain the proper amount of sugar.  


Dry molasses


Liquid Molasses

Liquid molasses is sweet syrup that is used as a food, but also as a soil amendment to feed and stimulate microorganisms.  It is normally sprayed at 1Ė2 oz. per gallon of water.  It has an approximate NPK analysis of 1-0-5, but as with most organic products, that is basically irrelevant.  Like the dry molasses, it provides food for microorganisms and is a source of carbon, sulfur and potash.  It is a quick source of energy for the soil life and microbes living the soil, or the compost pile, and will help chase fire ants away.  Liquid molasses is used in sprays to help organic pest controls and as an ingredient in many organic fertilizers.  It is also a major ingredient in Garrett Juice.  

Liquid molasses is an excellent foliar feeding material by itself and can be mixed with other organic liquids.  It can be used for agriculture at 2-4 quarts per acre for soil application. For foliar application on broadleaf plants, use 1 pint per acre.  For grasses and grains, use 1 quart per acre.  Blackstrap molasses is the best choice because it contains the sulfur and iron of the original material.  Since it is hard to find, any molasses will work, but in general, the darker ones work best.  None of the liquid molasses products last as long as the dry version.


Molasses to Control Nutgrass


QUESTION: What is the application rate for dry molasses on a lawn? And how should I set the spreader? E.S., Dallas

ANSWER: Most broadcast or cyclone spreaders will put out about 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet when the setting is wide open. I usually make two passes to put out 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. A benefit of organic fertilizers is that no harm is done when the application rate isnít exact.


Molasses

Sweet syrup that is a carbohydrate used as a soil amendment to feed and stimulate microorganisms. Contains sulfur, potash, and many trace minerals. Approximate analysis is 1-0-5. Molasses provides food for microorganisms and is a source of carbon, sulfur, and potash. It is a good, quick source of energy for the soil life and microbes in a compost pile, and will chase fire ants away. It is a carbon source and feeds beneficial microbes creating greater nature fertility. Liquid molasses is used in sprays and dry molasses is used as an ingredient in organic fertilizers. It contains sulfur, potash, and other trace minerals. Excellent foliar feeding material and can be mixed with other organic liquids. Use at 2-4 quarts/acre for soil application. For foliar application on broadleaf plants use 1 pint per acre. For grasses and grains still use 1 quart per acre. Blackstrap molasses is the best choice because it contains the sulfur and iron of the original material.

Dry molasses isnít really straight dried molasses. Itís molasses sprayed on a grain residue carrier. Itís an excellent carbon source that stimulates beneficial microorganisms. And, it repels fire ants.

Molasses is the best sugar for horticultural use because of its trace minerals. Blackstrap is hard to find but is the best molasses because of  the sulfur and iron, but any kind will work. Molasses is a carbon source and feeds the beneficial microbes creating greater natural plant fertility. Molasses also has a nice side benefit. When used with compost tea and orange oil,  it kills fire ants and other insect pests. By itself, molasses repels fire ants effectively.

 
Bed Preparation

Bed Preparation 2011 Update

The Key To Successful Gardening is Excellent Bed Preparation

FIRST THE DONíTS:

Donít remove native soil
unless drainage problems are caused by the raised beds. Existing native soil is an important part of the bed preparation mix. Donít use peat moss, pine bark or washed concrete sand. These products are problematic, especially when compared to the natural organic choices. Donít till wet soil. Tilling, forking or digging holes in wet soil does damage by squeezing the soil particles together, causing glazing and eliminating the air spaces needed for healthy soil life. Donít spray toxic herbicides. Spraying toxic herbicides anytime is a bad idea, but in the winter, itís really stupid because it canít kill dormant grasses and weeds.

NOW THE DOíS:

Remove unwanted vegetation wisely. Scrape away any existing weeds and grass and toss that material into the compost pile or replant the sod elsewhere. Always remove the grass before any tilling is done. Tilling first drives the reproductive part of the grasses and broadleafs down in the ground to be a weed problem forever. Organic herbicides can be used in the summer, but physical removal is still better.

Raise the beds. Walls arenít essential, but the top of the beds should be flat and higher than the surrounding grades with sloped edges for drainage. This lifting happens naturally if proper amounts of amendments are added to the native soil.

Add amendments. Add 4 - 6Ē of compost, dry molasses or other organic fertilizer (2 lbs. per 100 sq. ft.), zeolite (10 lbs. per 100 sq. ft.), lava sand (10 lbs. per 100 sq. ft.), greensand (4 lbs. per 100 sq. ft.), and whole ground cornmeal (2 lbs. per 100 sq. ft.). If the budget allows, add Ĺ inch of decomposed granite. Rototill or fork to a total depth of 8Ē.


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