Oak Trees and Acorns, Mold, Banana Trees, Photinia Problems

Q. I have two oak trees in the front yard that produce huge acorns every year at this time. What kind of oak do I have? Is it shumard or red? I want to take the acorns from the tree and plant my very own tree. I have purchased a decent sized container to hold the acorns when planted. How deep do I bury the acorns in my potting mix? Do I let the acorns drop before I plant them or do I pull them off the tree beforehand? This is a project my daughter and I will take on over the next few years and I would like for it to be a success. ’– J.R., Corinth

A. You probably have bur oaks if the acorns are about the size of golf balls. Shumard red oak acorns are more the size of large marbles. Both are planted the same way. Wait until the acorns release from the tree but don’t allow them to lay on the ground long. Weevils find them fast, drill small smooth holes and eat the contents. To make sure these oak seeds are still viable, toss them in water. Those that float have already been ruined by the weevils. Throw them in the compost pile. Plant the good ones in the ground or in pots. The potting soil can be organic potting soil or native soil. Some of the latest research indicates that the heavier native soil is the best for the trees long term. Depth of planting can vary. Squirrels and some gardeners plant the acorns twice as deep as the seed is wide. Others, especially greenhouse growers plant the acorns right on the surface of the soil with half the seed exposed. Squirrels will be the biggest problem but can be kept at bay by covering the soil and acorns with lava gravel. The gravel will also help plant growth.

Q. How can I remove mold from the exterior wall of my house? ’– D.W., Dallas

A. I would spray orange oil or d-limonene at 2 oz. per gallon of water.

Q. Is there a way to "winter’” my large banana trees? ’– A.R., Dallas

A. Cut the stalks off about 3’” above the ground after the first frost and cover the stumps with a thick layer of shredded mulch ’– shredded cedar is the best choice. The bananas will return next spring with no problem unless we have a historic cold winter. The chances are even better if you are using organic techniques. Fewer disease problems and less freeze damage are two of the beneficial aspects of the organic method.

Your photinia shrubs may have purple spots or chlorotic leaves or bleached looking leaves or dying and dead tip growth. All of these are symptoms, not problems. Spraying the foliage with toxic chemical fungicides such as Fung-Away, Terraclor, Daconil or Bayleton is senseless exposure to poisons and won’t solve anything. Others also add that nothing can be done for the sick shrubs and the photinias will die anyway. That’s bad advice, too. The Sick Tree Treatment will save sick photinias if the roots aren’t too far gone. That’s right. The real problem is fungal disease in the soil on the root system. The three step side effects on the foliage are just secondary manifestations. Cornmeal is the primary tool, but the entire Sick Tree Treatment is on my web site www.dirtdoctor.com or available by mail by calling 1-866-444-SOIL.

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