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 Post subject: Tomatoes shriveling
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2004 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 10:07 am
Posts: 43
Location: Coppell, Texas
Some of the smaller leaves on my tomatoes are already turning dark green and shriveling. Does anyone know what this is and how I can fix it? I just planted them in the last week. First time to do tomatoes, I planted romas and a glory hybrids (I think). I will appreciate any help.

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 Post subject: tomatoes
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 12:47 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 12, 2003 12:45 am
Posts: 420
Location: Whitesboro,TX
What did you plant them in? Compost, lava sand, worm castings, corn meal, wheat, green sand, molasses, fertilizer - organic or industrial?
Everyone on this site will be glad to help but we need more info.
Robert D Bard


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 11:06 am 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 10:07 am
Posts: 43
Location: Coppell, Texas
I prepared the bed with composted cow manure, organic humus, dried molasses, alliance cornmeal, bagged compost (from calloway's). (Last year I added peat and lava sand to this area.) I sprinkled a little bone meal in the holes when planting. I mulched them with a little more of the bagged compost and cedar mulch. I sprayed them once with hot pepper wax when I planted them for preventative measures and I've sprayed them with garrett juice with cornmeal juice in it. The weather was cloudy when I planted them and stayed cloudy and moist for the next few days. I think that's everything. Thanks.

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 Post subject: tomatoes
PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 12:32 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 12, 2003 12:45 am
Posts: 420
Location: Whitesboro,TX
You have done a lot of things well. I still think you need some humates. It looks like ground up coal but is loaded with trace minerals. (I take one humate capsule every day it helps to get trace minerals and to detoxify my body). It is not a requirement but worm castings seem to help tomatoes. Get one of those little test kits and try and get anidea of soil ph. Plants and people seem to do better if slightly on the alkaline side and not on the acidic side. A real soil sample would be in order but a little late for now. Howard recommends a lab in Edinbourough Tx - south Tx close to Mexican border. Check for web site for phone # and address.
You amy not need more corn meal or corn meal juice in spray.
I don't think people do well w/o trace minerals and neither do plants. Besides humates, you can buy a product from FL called collodial phosphate. It is power like clay and is very good and is still organic.
Robert D Bard


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 1:50 am 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 10:07 am
Posts: 43
Location: Coppell, Texas
Where can I find humates in the DFW area? Preferably northwest Dallas, I live close to DFW airport. Also, I did not understand if you were saying that I may or may not need for corn meal/corn meal juice.

Thanks for your time.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 5:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2003 10:35 am
Posts: 94
Location: houston, tx
http://www.txplant-soillab.com/


There is the website for the lab in Edinburg, TX. I've wondered sometimes if it is the colder evenings that cause what you are describing.

Susan

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 4:33 pm
Posts: 526
Location: parker county, texas
I think I would plant again, and skip the hot pepper wax spray. I'm not in favor or preventative spraying, and this time of year, pests are generally not much of a problem except for aphids in some of the cole crops. Also, too much nitrogen can cause problems with young plants and cause some of the symptoms you described. I know that some people are of the opinion that your soil can't have too much "good" stuff in it, but you can overdo it, just as you can if you use synthetic fertilizers. Just a couple of points to consider.


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 Post subject: pepper spray
PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2004 10:15 am 
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Joined: Sat May 10, 2003 5:48 pm
Posts: 806
Location: Weatherford,TX
What is pepper wax spray? I use hot pepper spray occasionally but I am not familiar with the wax. The reason I'm asking is that the "wax" part of the spray could keep the plant leaves from breathing properly.

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The "soap" you use is normally chemicals, etc. Use real SOAP !!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2004 9:06 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 3:12 pm
Posts: 111
Location: San Antonio,TEXAS
I also have a problem. I am not sure what is going on with my tomato plants. I planted four plants about 2.5 weeks ago. They were about 12 inches high. I planted them deep. Lots of compost has been added (no till) to the garden . The lower branches and leaves are large and flat but, the new growth branches and leaves look stunted and are curled almost like they are suffering from no water . I have several sets and two 1.5" diameter fruits. We have had plenty of rain over the last two weeks (about 2") but have no standing water in the garden. Help please.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2004 1:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 10:07 am
Posts: 43
Location: Coppell, Texas
The active ingredient in the "hot pepper wax" spray is Capsaicin and other capsaicinoids (stuff that makes peppers hot)... 00.00001125% and other ingredients... 99.99998875%. There is not a listing of what makes up the "other ingredients". The EPA reg. no. is 4-397 and the EPA est. no. is 4-NY-1. I don't know what those mean. There's probably a website somewhere...?

My tomatoes are now growing fine, I am just using Garrett juice and watering. I just didn't want a little leaf shriveling to turn into a whole plant shriveling. The hot pepper wax did seem to stop the leafrollers from devouring my cannas and they are growing great...different leaf texture I guess. There's actually a picture of tomatoes on the bottle.

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 Post subject: Tomatoes
PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2004 6:37 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2004 8:27 am
Posts: 9
Location: Grand Prairie Tx
Last year my tomatoes wilted and died after setting very little fruit. This year my plants were wilting with the leaves rolling up and browning just like too little water. Just like last year but much earlier in the growing season.

I made some garlic pepper tea. Three cloves and about two peppers ( i used picked Japs). I chopped this up with a drop of soap and 8 oz of water. I let it steep for about 8 hours then strained. I took this mixture and topped off to make one gallon. I used 1/4 cup of the mix to one gallon to dilute even further and sprayed the tomatoes. ( i believe this is close to the mix listed on the website.

They have bounced back well and look good and strong. I think I was having spider mites or something like that on my plants as upon inspection I say some tiny webs on the plants. This mix seems to help all my plants that suffer from spider mites.

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