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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2004 7:54 am 
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Location: Alpine,TEXAS
I am curious about the differences between the two types of dry molasses.
I am currently operating under the premise that dry molasses, produced for feed, can be applied in an agricultural setting with success. Has anyone tried this and at what rates?

I am involved with a land restoration project in southern Brewster County on a very large piece of property. We are in a testing phase and will mix dry molasses in with other variables, including;

erosion control blankets
native grass seeds
transplants
PAM
seed trenches
compost tea
organic dams
brush piles

At this point I don't really care what comes up, I'd take tumble weeds. Large portions of this property are bare soil with a durable physical crust, so any thing that treats soil health is in our tool box. Remoteness, highly erodeable soils and rough terrain makes the use of equipment impractical.


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 Post subject: dry molasses
PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2004 8:20 am 
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Location: Whitesboro,TX
I have only found two type of molasses- dry
and liquid (feed store has cattlac that is used
for feed and sells for 1 dollar per gal). If you
have any way to spray it will be considerably
cheaper than dry molasses.
If you are restoring it would be in your best
interest to use either dry humates or liquid.
This helps build organic matter and it
detoxifies the soil. We also use humates
to detoxify humans to get rid of the
chemical toxin that we are exposed to that
cause cancer, heart disease, depression, etc.
I am restoring pastures with sea water,
humates, and molasses. All three of these
have trace minerals (sea water is the best).
I will have non-certified organic hay for our
grass fed non-chemical beef.
One other choice is compost. If you could
find something like tons of grass clippings
and through it out it would help stop the
erosion and builf the soil.
Hope this helps.
Robert D Bard


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2004 9:49 am 
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Location: Alpine,TEXAS
I have purchased dry molasses, designed to be used as feed, in 50 lbs sacks. It is granular or flakey. According to this website, "horticutural dry molasses" is molasses sprayed onto organic debris, nut shells or or something like it. So the feed type will release more "stuff" (organic acids) and I think should be applied at a lesser rate. Any idea what rate?

HOw does the seawater help?


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 Post subject: dry molasses
PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2004 10:58 pm 
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Location: Whitesboro,TX
Sugar will break grass, leaves, etc faster -
molasses is a form of sugar. You can
drill into stumps and put jelly, sugar,
molasses, or anything like this and it
will help things rot faster.
Sea water is the perfect fertilizer. It
has 92 trace minerals, amino acids,
enzymes, beneficial bacteria. When it
is diluted properly the saline content is
the same as our tears and what is in
our blood. With out the salt the trace
minerals are not absorbed.
It is impossible to eat healthy today
unless you grow it yourself to add trace
minerals. There are virtually no trace
minerals in any food today. I raise
wheat grass in the house hydrophonically
in stainless steel trays and sea water.
This gives me total nutrition - vitamins,
minerals, amino acids, enzymes.
This also restores pastures and hay
meadows so that the grass fed beef
we raise is healthy for us instead of
the stuff at the stores.
I don't what you are paying for dry
molasses but I bet you can't buy it
as cheap as liquid molasses.
Robert D Bard


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2004 4:30 pm 
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Location: Alpine,TEXAS
I don't have a way to spray the liguid molasses. The 50 lb bags were $11.50.


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 Post subject: Rejuvenating soil
PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2004 5:06 pm 
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Posts: 829
Location: Dallas,TX
Can you get some humate or animal manure? Those will help to enrich the soil and encourage wild species to grow. Any kind of organic material you could get to dump on the soil or spread will help. In combination with the molasses, which will speed the decomposition, it will bring the soil back to life. Straw, shredded tree trimmings or material from cleared land, etc. any of these sources of organic material will help the soil revive.

Best of fortune. We sincerely hope you are successful.
Kathe :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2004 1:22 pm 
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Location: ,
We amended five acres last fall. Here is how we used molasses.

We bought dry molasses from our local feed store at less than $10/50 lbs. As little as 50lbs per acre is useful. From there up to 400lbs per acre is economical for large acreage. We took the middle road at 200lbs per acre. We spent one day spreading molasses, green sand, and lava sand with a four-wheeler pulling a 100lb capacity spreader from Tractor Supply. Caution: All three amendments are impossible to spread moist or even on humid days.

We broadcasted clover, rye and if I remember wheat. Well the grass flourished and now three fat horses graze there. Speaking of animals, livestock can actually help land recover viability. Even attracting deer helps.

I wish you lots of success. Feel free to email me if you have questions.

_________________
In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth.


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 Post subject: dry molasses
PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2004 1:13 am 
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Location: Whitesboro,TX
You can also feed DE to worm horses
and cows and the part they expell will
improve pastures as the left overs are
loaded with trace minerals.
I have not put out lava sand as I have
not decided how it will come out of a
spreder when I get it dry. I was also
conderned that if it was dry it would
probably "eat" the blades on on the
spreader. I am hopping that someday
my humate supplier will be able to
custom mix humate + lava sand +
DE (DE we think will keep mixture
from absorbing moisture out of the
air. Any thoughts will be appreciated.
Robert D Bard


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2004 1:04 pm 
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Location: Alpine,TEXAS
How is it that you think DE will keep your mix from absorbing moisture out of the air?


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 Post subject: dry molasses
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2004 11:21 pm 
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Randy that sell humates says that it will
and I am open to suggetions.
Robert D Bard


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2004 8:10 am 
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Many materials react differently to moisture levels in the air. Molasses in humidity gets stickly, lava sand and green sand get heavy and clumpy. DE on the other hand, as long as it isn't directly sprayed with water, won't absorb air moisture. The idea is to balance out the sticky, clumpy properties to get a reliably spreadable material. Haven't tried DE yet but cornmeal helps too.

Robert: We have spread the sands with push spreaders and pull behind ATV spreaders and other than the moisture problems the spreaders didn't seem to have a problem.

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In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth.


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