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 Post subject: molasses and blackspot
PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2003 1:56 pm 
Does anyone have any information on organic methods for controlling blacksopt that really work. What about molasses with sulfur? :?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2003 2:42 pm 
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Location: San Antonio,TEXAS
Before I embarass myself :oops: , what have you tried that didn't work?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 9:59 am 
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Corn meal, powdered sulfur, and seaweed based aerated teas all have worked for me in the past as great fungicides.

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The entire Kingdom of God can be totally explained as an Organic Garden (Mark 4:26)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 9:55 pm 
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Location: Rowlett TX
Kathe kitchens suggested I try cornmeal on my roses and it works.... I mixed in a bag all along the rose bed, say 50 yards... and then made a spray that was a mixture of cornmeal (soaked/strained), mollasses, and a little seaweed/fish emulsion fertilizer and then applied it with the tank sprayer.... Well this was right after cutting back the roses and fertilizing and a couple weeks later I have NEVER EVER seen my roses take off and bud this way and the blackspot is gone, outta here, seeya, buh-bye.

Fertilizer-wise I applied the rose food from Rhodes which i believe is rock phosphate mixed with organic ferts and a bag of greensense 5-2-4 and an inch of compost, then the cornmeal and I mixed it all into the soil. The soil around these guys is pretty good and drains well - say 10 inches of layered compost and hardwood mulch breaking down over 5 years and I use the most rotten bags of hardwood mulch I can find since they are more broken down... very wormy in there and drains well. I also water via a soaker hose - no watering the foliage on roses around here unless ya want a blackspot farm.

If you are growing roses in N. Texas and want a combination anti-blackspot and instant growth formula this be the one. Some of my rose bushes have 'trunks' that are 3-4" thick and some of the bushes get 100 nice longstemmed tea roses PER WEEK when they are going full blast.

Neem oil has also worked well for me this year - dries out the fungus (those leaves will yellow and drop) and is very effective at dissolving the exoskeletons of whiteflies and thrips while coating their little lungs in nice oxygen-proof oil so they die miserably through dehydration/suffocation..

The roses are about 1 year removed from the previous program of using systemic pesticides and fungicides and no BS - they are amazing this fall and oddly the blooms are much more fragrant and the @#$@#&# thrip population seems to be down - not sure what's eating them but hopefully something in the organic program encouraged a natural thrip enemy.... I do see gazillions of little spiders around so that may be doing the trick...

Over the past 5 years they got alternating doses of di-syston and acephate and that would knock back thrips for a week or two - now something is evidently hunting them down, tying them up and sucking the life out of those miserable rose-eating SOBs as they deserve. Ok, ya caught me - i am not a warm fuzzy organic type, I take great joy in seeing the bugs that have been bugging me die an excruciating death to the benefit of my beloved roses.

I started playing with organics because I am relatively attached to my daughter who loves to play barefoot in the yard... worth mentioning because I am not preaching organic for organic's sake - I preach it because I went from having the nicest landscaping on the block to having the nicest BY FAR and it works, plain and simple it works... so if your thinking is "Yeah, saving the planet is cool and all but only when convenient" then let me tell ya - politics and philosophy aside - if you are purely Machiavellan about your gardening product choices you want to go organic.

How's that for a long, boring answer to a simple question!!!?


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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2004 5:25 am 
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My Aunt has the prettiest unblemished roses I ever saw. She puts her homemade lye soap in a bucket of water and sprays them. I will be making my own soap this weekend. We live in hot and humid Tennessee.


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