From the October Newsletter published by "The Natural Gardener"I copied the following:
Here are just a few types of bulbs that can naturalize here:
Daffodils/Narcissus: "Carbineer," "Carlton," "Ceylon," "Delibes,"
"Earlicheer," "Fortune," "Grand Primo," "Ice Follies," "Mount Hood,"
"Paperwhites," "Rustom Pasha;" Hyacinthus orientalis var. albulus
(French-Roman hyacinth); Ipheion uniflorum (blue starflowers); Lycoris
squamigera (magic lily); Leucojum aestivum (summer snowflake); Muscari
neglectum (a.k.a. M. racemosum or M. atlanticum); Zephyranthes candida (rain
lily); and Zephyranthes drummondii (giant prairie lily).
Purchase (but don't plant yet) spring-blooming bulbs. Often, now is when
these flower bulbs are available in the nursery. However, planting them now
could cause them to start sprouting during a fall warm spell, only to be
frozen back the next day, losing the bloom for next spring. It's better to
plant them in November, when we - on average - begin to get more
consistently cool temperatures.
Put the non-naturalizing bulbs, like the classic Dutch tulip and Hyacinth,
for example, in the refrigerator now for planting or for forcing. Our
winters are not cold enough nor long enough for these bulbs to bloom
properly here, so we must supplement their winter cold period. Bulbs
require a particular cold spell, like fruit trees, in order to form their
For more information, consult Garden Bulbs for the South, by Scott Ogden, from which this information is taken.
I would not suggest mail order bulbs at all. Try Redenta's in Colleyville or Green Mama's in NRH.
Nadine Bielling Haefs
Gardener Exchange Forum
The Laws of Ecology:
"All things are interconnected. Everything goes somewhere. There's no such thing as a free lunch. Nature bats last." --Ernest Callenbach