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jrosto
Joined: 03 May 2003
Posts: 241
Location: Arlington
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| Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2003 9:37 am Post subject: Converting large lawn areas to an organic program |
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| One of my responsibilities at work is the lawn and landscaping of our industrial property. I have convinced upper management that it would be a good idea to try organic methods for the upkeep of the property. Now my problem is how to achieve this with a minimum initial expense. The total lawn area of the property is approximately 6 acres. We have quite a few mature native trees on site and have planted three dozen or so live oaks three years ago. I have one full time yard worker assigned to maintaining the yard. I need some ideas on how best to get started. What type of spreader would be adequate for spreading both manure and natural fertilizers? Who would be a good supplier for these items in the South Dallas area? Thanks in advance for your comments :wink: |
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Nadine
Joined: 10 Mar 2003
Posts: 1170
Location: Carrollton,TEXAS
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| Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2003 11:18 am Post subject: |
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Congratulations on convincing "upper management" to convert to organics!
Initially, it can cost more, depending upon what results you want or need, but it does not have to. It is important to remember that in the long run, the organic program is quite cost effective. As the soil improves, it will need less ammendments. Also, the need for water will decrease as the soil improves.
Check out the Basic Program:
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/pics/documents/bop.doc
I use a Scott's Speedy Green broadcast spreader (over the name I put my own sign: 100% ORGANIC) :)
The only way I know of to apply compost is to take a wheel barrow full and dump piles. From these piles, rake the compost out over the ground. This is very good for the turf. I believe 1/2 inch is best over existing grass, no more.
What had been used on the property previously? It may be a good idea to broadcast some zeolite. That is the least expensive way to detox the soil.
The least expensive and most effective way to get things going is to put out dry molasses product at 10 pounds per 1000 square feet.
As for sources, check out the business directory:
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/businesstest.php
You may wish to access more information at: http://www.dirtdoctor.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=14&sid=8228374a535c1abf0d7676af4ea9910c |
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jrosto
Joined: 03 May 2003
Posts: 241
Location: Arlington
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| Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2003 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Organic1. I was really hoping to get away from the manure piles and rakes, as my labor pool is quite small.
The long term cost effectivness along with minimizing contaminants in our storm water run off were my arguments for an organic approach.
During my 10 year at this facility, I have kept chemical usage to a minimum. Occasional light applications of weed and feed which does no good at all, and fire ant control products.
Thanks again for your reply. |
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Nadine
Joined: 10 Mar 2003
Posts: 1170
Location: Carrollton,TEXAS
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| Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2003 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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I am glad to help. :D
jrosto wrote: ...Occasional light applications of weed and feed which does no good at all...
:shock:
Not only do they not do any good, they are some of the most harmful products on the market.
You really should do an application of zeolite. Nor-It would be better, but it is a bit more pricey.
[url] http://www.dirtdoctor.com/radio.php?id=371&set_theme=1[/url] |
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EMH
Joined: 23 Apr 2003
Posts: 30
Location: Prosper, TX
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| Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2003 10:32 pm Post subject: Organic Program and Supplier |
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| If you need some assitance in treatment of the property give Michael a call with Soils Alive. They have the equipment to get the job done and can get the results your looking for. If your on a mission to do it in house and are looking for some advice you can give us a call at AG Organics toll free 877 447 3330. We can point you in the right direction and supply you with all your product needs. Visit our website at www.agorganics.com or give a call. |
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Dchall_San_Antonio
Joined: 18 Mar 2003
Posts: 2002
Location: San Antonio,TEXAS
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 1:14 am Post subject: |
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I'm not sure how I missed this one back when it was first posted. It is probably too late for the original poster, but others might be doing the same.
Manure is not what you want. Compost is what you want. Manure smells and can kill the grass.
Large scale compost applications are best made with a hydromulcher. They can apply about 5 acres per hour (I think that's right) at the proper rate of 1 cubic yard per acre.
Liquid molasses is much less work than dried to my way of thinking. It goes on at a rate of 1 gallon per acre. Get it at a farm co-op for $0.11 per pound. That's about a dollar per gallon. Put 6 gallons in your sprayer with any amount of water you want to spray. Spray as evenly as practical until the contents are gone.
Then I would use corn meal or alfalfa meal as a fertilizer. It depends on which one you can get cheaper and how you can apply it. For 6 acres you'll need 2,500 to 5,000 pounds of it. So we're talking about heavy equipment to spread this stuff. I'd check with a farm/ranch rental company for spreaders. And be sure to get a discount for buying in bulk. |
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jrosto
Joined: 03 May 2003
Posts: 241
Location: Arlington
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 12:03 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks David;
I was thinking "compost" when my fingers typed "manure".
The hydromulcher sounds like what I was looking for.
Thanks again |
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