Sod cutter - Safe depth to avoid injuring tree root systems?

[gsblake]

My wife and I are currently re-designing the landscaping in our front yard. One of the primary reasons we're doing this is because large areas of the St. Augustine lawn are suffering under the shade of two large red oak trees (Shumards, I think, the sort that produce those green "balls"). We've purposely not pruned the lower limbs on the trees because we like the appearance. And we have no hard feelings about getting rid of about 60% of our lawn. Our intent is to plant Persian ivy in the deeply shaded areas immediately under the trees. (No, we won't allow it climb the trees! )

We plan to use a sod cutter to remove the lawn for the ivy beds (and in other areas away from the trees to enlarge existing beds).

How deep can I go with the sod cutter before I risk disturbing/injuring the root systems of the trees?

I believe the sod cutter can go as shallow as 1". I'd like to go deeper if it's safe - closer to 3" - because I'd prefer to plant the ivy level with the remaining lawn (no raised bed) and back-fill with some compost/amendments to break down the clay soil.

Thanks in advance.

[Dirt Doctor]

2" is about the right depth and probably about as deep as the sod cutter can go. For St Augustine that is more than deep enough.

[e Craig]

I agree,. Two inches is more than enough.

I do fear that the sod cutter will pose a couple problems.

1. It's heavy and difficult to navigate. If you are unfamiliar w/ its operation you'll probably be easily frustrated.
2. Most oaks that I know have a lot of surface roots that should not be damaged. And they will interfere with a machine such as a sod cutter.

St Augustinegrass regrowth will not come from the root system. If you remove the runners [found mostly at or above the soil surface] little if any will return from the remaining roots.

While struggling with a similar project in the past, one of my workers demonstrated that she could remove more, faster and easier, by skimming at the top of the soil with a mattock. I understand that, regionally in this country, there are over eighty names for this tool. Knowledgeable people can tell where you're from by your name for ti. I know only a few others, Grubbing Hoe, Garden Pick, and Talachi [Sp?].

Are you fully committed to replacing the turf? St. Augistinegrass likes some shade but does decline in heavy shade. It can thrive in dappled shade. Good skillful pruning can, without greatly changing the appearance, open the foliage for enough sunlight to support the turf. As a bonus, you get better cooling from trees if air can circulate through the canopy.

Sorry that this is long. Hope that it is helpful.

Take care.
Craig

[gsblake]

Thanks for the replies.

Craig - I immediately thought of the John Henry folktale when I read your anecdote about your employee and the garden pick. With about 1,500 sq. feet of grass to remove, I just don't think my dodgy back can handle that job with a garden pick.

[e Craig]

Yeah, well, most of us think of John Henry swinging his hammer when presented w/this tool. The point is that one may need re-examine the goal[s].

Use this multi-named tool more as a pendulum. Use, don't fight, the weight of the tool head, SKIM at the soil surface, lifting mostly grass runners and little soil. With a little practice, back stress can be greatly reduced.

And don't let the 1,500 sq. ft. conjure visions of Don Q. tilting at windmills. Remember, instead, the adage "A man may eat an elephant, one mouthfull at a time."

Sorry. Once thinking anecdotally, it's hard to stop!

Please don't forget the other point: Tree pruning is both a skill and an art. With the combination, you may be able to save your grass, while preserving the overall appearance, and your back.

Take care.
Craig