Root Flare Management
How do you uncover your own root flares? The simple answer is that
it needs to be done VERY carefully. Trees too deep in the ground,
an all to common problem, have two basic problems. When the trunk
flare in under ground, it stays moist and doesn't breathe properly as
bark is supposed to do. The soil too high on the trunk also often hides
circling and girdling roots which choke the tree and drastically slow
down growth. Trees grown in containers are highly subject to this
If you do the soil removal yourself, use hand tools and gloved hands
being extremely careful not to damage the wet bark tissue. Water
can be used but only with a soft flowing stream. Strong water blasts
can severely damage the soft bark on the base of the trees.
By far the best route is to hire an Arborist that uses the air spade.
It is a fancy sandblasting type tool that blows air (no sand) at a high
velocity and removes the soil without damaging even the smallest roots.
Once exposed, the small roots trying to grow up to get air should be
removed and the depression caused by the trunk/root flare exposure should be left open. As the flare expands from the growth of a morevigorous tree, the open dish will fill in. All I would put in the depression
is a thin layer of shredded cedar mulch.Excellent root flare on a lacebark elm.
Moore Tree Care Unchokes Magnolia
"All choked-up Magnolia" Photos by Sandy Rose
Above is an interesting group of pictures that show a recent Magnolia that we uncovered. It is one of the more dramatic examples of severe girdling roots. I was showing the tree to Sandy Rose and he actually took the pictures. Thanks Sandy! At our office, we are referring to this tree as the “poster child” for problem root flares. The work on the tree was done about a month or so ago. We will continue to monitor how it responds. I predict that we will be surprised at how quickly the depressed sections will fill in or rebound. This tree is sighing with relief and is saying “thank you”. Moore Tree Care
Here's the State champion pecan tree in Weatherford having
its root flare exposed with an air-spade. Moore Tree Care donated the work.
Root Flare Q & A with photos from Frank Maddy
FM:This burr oak was not too deep compared to the others. Should I go deeper, what about the sucker root?
All these fruit trees were bare root and are in their 4th year. Peach tree #1 had some roots crossing over and choking at the trunk. The tree leans, should I expose the root flare on the covered side?
HG: Yes, this tree is still too deep in the ground.
HG: Those are adventitious roots (false roots above the true flare). I would probably wait till fall to remove them.
HG: Yes and Yes.
Thanks. I listen to both shows and I could not believe how deep these trees were planted.
QUESTION: I recently purchased a 5-gallon forest pansy redbud tree. I knew from listening to your radio show that the tree could possibly be planted too deeply in the pot, but I found that it was planted a good 5 or 6 inches above the crook in the stem where the graft was, and the root flare was a few inches below that. I went ahead and planted it at the root flare, leaving the graft and a good portion of the "wet" trunk exposed. But I was wondering if the root flare rules are the same when dealing with a grafted tree, or does the original trunk below the graft need to be in the ground? D.P., Savoy
ANSWER: You did the right thing. The root flare should always be exposed. The graft union being up in the air is no problem at all. Good job!