I live in Tyler TX, have an established SA lawn with lots of pine tree and want to switch to CGM as my only fertilizer and preemergent. Should I start in January or just do in March and June?

It depends on what your purpose is for applying CGM now. If you want to fertilize, you can apply now, if you like -- and if you can afford to do so.

That said, fertilizing 4 times a year is pretty standard, so something like March, June, September, December, is probably what you'll want to stay with.

If your intent is to apply CGM for a jump on the pre-emergent benefits, my understanding is that waiting until March (and reapplying in June and early fall, if you can afford it) is best, since you want to wait until near the time the early spring weed seeds begin to germinate.

Hope that helps. Happy Gardening!

I just got here (to the Dallas area), and had to re-sod my front lawn with StAug last spring. I have no experience dealing with hot-weather lawns, but after reading about the Dirt Doctor in the Dallas Morning News, and followed to this website, I've gotten started taking care of the yard in an organic way. I just got done spreading corn gluten meal on the yard.

I read the Lawn Forum FAQ's, and yes, I sympathize with you for your admin letting it float, not making it sticky. Thanks for mentioning in your "meet the mod" sticky, or I wouldn't have known about it. I spent some time tracking it down, and my vote is to keep it sticky. It covers a lot of ground - pun intended - and helps avoid unnecessary questions.

The two questions I have are:

1) what does "watering deep but infrequently" mean, and more importantly, how do I know when to water? I get the way of telling how much water my system is delivering by putting out cans to collect what the watering system is delivering, but how do I tell when the soil is dry enough and it's time to water?

2) how do I balance this with what I've been told is the #1 problem affecting slab foundations in our area, in that if the soil dries out too much, the soil shrinks and the house's slab cracks? My house has a 3 foot "no grass, but shrub" zone around it for the most part, so I could set up to water that area separately if it conflicts with what you suggest for the lawn.

Thanks for the help! Tim

Thanks for the replies! Char, I guess I started with this thread because I had just spread CGM and was preoccupied with that. Sorry, next time I'll start a new thread. I'm working my way through the threads on the Lawn Forum and finding a lot of useful information, as you predicted, and I'll start on the Organic Forum FAQ's after that. Thanks to you both for pointing me to the info.

So if I have the watering thing right, it's (1) don't bother over winter when the rain/snow does the watering for me and the lawn is dormant, (2) apply monthly in the spring, adjusting for rain, until it gets "hot", then bi-weekly or weekly, depending on rainfall, and (3) go back to bi-weekly and then monthly after August as it cools down. Also (4) make sure the soil is drying out (to what depth?) between waterings, but if the lawn starts to dry out (meaning it starts turning brown?) then I need to increase the amount of water at the time of application rather than increasing the frequency.

So my two questions (from above) are (1) what do you mean by "the lawn drying out"?
Does that mean it starts to turn brown? Yes, I am a novice with lawns.

And (2) how deep should it dry out? I ask because I had to put a couple of posts in the ground last June, and noticed that the soil on top was dry, but because of all the rain, the soil about 6" down was still wet. Should I use the depth of the roots plus some distance below that in order to convince the roots to go deeper, or just the depth of the roots? Or maybe depth plus distance (maybe 1/2"?) until the roots reach a certain depth, and if so how deep are we aiming for the roots to get?

Thanks so much, Tim

So my two questions (from above) are (1) what do you mean by "the lawn drying out"?
Does that mean it starts to turn brown? Yes, I am a novice with lawns.

And (2) how deep should it dry out? I ask because I had to put a couple of posts in the ground last June, and noticed that the soil on top was dry, but because of all the rain, the soil about 6" down was still wet. Should I use the depth of the roots plus some distance below that in order to convince the roots to go deeper, or just the depth of the roots? Or maybe depth plus distance (maybe 1/2"?) until the roots reach a certain depth, and if so how deep are we aiming for the roots to get?

Thanks so much, Tim


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Hi Tim,

Let me start off by saying I have been Organic for a little over a year. I still have so much to learn. Most of my information has come from this forum and the Article Library.

I will answer your questions as best I can. There might be others who will post with different suggestions. And that is good! When that happens I take in all the info and then decided what works best for my lawn's needs.

Watering can be tricky because there are many factors to consider. Which is why the tuna cans placed in different areas of your yard is a good place to start. You might find that even though you run your zones for the same amount of time, some areas of your yard are getting more water. And your shaded areas usually require less water. Also think about your plants. Do they need as much water as your grass? Do you and your neighbors overlap in watering? If so, are these areas getting too much water?

So that is the guide lines I used deciding how long I needed to water.

In the winter, I usually water every two weeks. If we have rain or snow, I do not water. I do also keep in mind our temps. Right now, we are in the 70's. It is possible I will not go 2 weeks. I have a very simple way of checking my yard for dryness. I stick a long handle screw driver in my yard. If it comes up dry, I water. Another way to check for dryness is to walk on your grass. If you see your footprints, your grass is getting dry. This works better in the Spring and Summer when your grass is green.

Also, always water in the morning. Never in the late afternoon or evening. This is so important for St. Augustine turf.

Deep root, infrequent watering is good for your foundation. Also, weeds like moist soil.

Tim, I have found local nurseys to be very helpful too.

I hope this helps a bit!

Good luck,
Char Harris,
Flower Mound, TX

Thanks! I really appreciate the time you've taken to answer my questions. Tim

Thanks! I really appreciate the time you've taken to answer my questions. Tim


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You are so welcome!

~Char

David, Char, Is is possible to move my posts to a new thread titled "Caring for St Augustine in Dallas"? I started an organic treatment regimen today, and I'd like to chronicle my progress on this forum in a thread. If it's not possible, I'll just start a new thread tomorrow. Thanks, Tim

David, Char, Is is possible to move my posts to a new thread titled "Caring for St Augustine in Dallas"? I started an organic treatment regimen today, and I'd like to chronicle my progress on this forum in a thread. If it's not possible, I'll just start a new thread tomorrow. Thanks, Tim


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Hi Tim,

David is our Moderator and he might be able to move your posts. I am not sure.

The page where all the Forums are listed, you will see
'Lawn Forum' 'Dchall, Moderator.'

You can 'click' on his name and send him a 'PM' Private Message or an email. Or he might see your post.

How about the 80 degree weather we had yesterday!

Best regards,
Char Harris,
Flower Mound, TX

Char, Thanks. I'll PM him. Hey, missed the weather, but that's a stunning 70degree swing in two weeks! I'm out on the West Coast visiting my daughter and getting ready to take my old Scout troop on a snowshoe backpack in the Sierra. Tim

Char, Thanks. I'll PM him. Hey, missed the weather, but that's a stunning 70degree swing in two weeks! I'm out on the West Coast visiting my daughter and getting ready to take my old Scout troop on a snowshoe backpack in the Sierra. Tim


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OMG....that sounds like fun! Be safe!

~Char