My post wasn't clear - a gallon is the maximum I've seen, I keep seeing different recommendations for how much to put down, everything from one quart to one gallon per acre.

You put garlic in with your compost tea? What about the antibiotic effects?

The recommendations from almost every soil program I have seen that is regularly effective is UP TO 1 gallon of molasses per acre. Having used molasses regularly for the last several years to great success, I'd tell you to start out with a gallon per acre along with a bio-innoculant so you get a full population of all the beneficial microbes and plenty of simple sugar as food for them to reproduce as rapidly as possible. Since you can get molasses in large quantities at less than $6 per gallon, it's relatively affordable and highly effective. There are several people on this forum who can steer you to a high volume molasses distributor.

You might PM a fellow called Bluestem here on the forum. He is a prize winning hay farmer who can give you a few tips on how he has been so successful. Best wishes!

Kateh

ok folks sorry i have not replied in so long but my real job ( truck driving )has kept me gone and buzy i did put done some organic fertilizer this spring and was wondering if it would be a good idea to put down dry molasses after i get to cut my hay. also i was wondering what would be good to overseed the pasture with that will help the coastal and not harm the horses.
can some one tell me what fescue is.

Molasses is cheap if you buy it as a cattle
liquid feed from farm store or co-op.
About $1.00/gal. It is called catt-lac.
Over seeding is tricky. Best is clover
and rye grass. Rye brings trace minerals
up from under the soil. Clovers will make
nitrogen. Problem is if you leave them
on the soil to long they smother the
summer grasses and can kill summer
grasses. Use and cut for hay or graze
them off before summer grasses start
to grow.
Robert D Bard

would it be better to put down dry molasses over the liquid
what is a fescue grass?
how do i get rid of bull nettles

Dry molasses is a pain - gets all over
everything - cloths, boots, shirt and it
doesn't spread well as it clumps with
any moisture. Liquid molasses is a
breeze.
Be careful with fescue. Be sure to only
buy endofite free. This only exists on
some fescue and it can cause abortions
in horses and cows, and/or birthing
problems. Endofite free is fine but most
feed store employees and/or owners
don't know what I just told you. This
was discovered back in the 80's and
early 90's. Feacue is a lot like rye grass
in terms of temperature and moisture.
I believe it does better on bottom land.
Also if you want to use rye grass, I have
found Marshal rye to be the best, followed
by gulf coast rye and one of the worst is
TAM 90.
Bull nettles are no big deal - vinegar -
I still like 20% as it kills better. I use
a hand sprayer and never get any on
the ground, but 10% will work. Pick a
hot day w/o rain and spray in am and
they will wilt same day. Spray before
they go to seed.
Robert D Bard

howard recommends about 300 lbs of dry molasses to the acre. is a gal of liquid equivalent to that amount of dry? also when and how often do you apply the molasses.

I've been using DE in cattle feed in an attempt to control flies and internal parasites but now I just read some info about how dung beetles are necessary for proper breakdown of dung and was wondering if using DE was killing off the dung beetle population? Of course the literature I was reading was produced by some chemical company wanting to sell their worm medicine because it doesn't harm dung beetles. So, to DE or not DE when it comes to dung beetles?

Any and all opinions considered. Especially comments by Dr. Dirt.
Charliebee

I found the other thread discussing dung beetles and it looks like the question of DE affecting them is still up for discussion.
Charliebee