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| Weed & Feed Fertilizers, Weed Removal, Brown Patch, Slugs |
| April 12, 2002 |
| By Howard Garrett |
The “Weed and Feed” fertilizers are being advertised heavily and are stacked high in the stores. I recommend you leave them there. The most interesting point about these products is that non-organic people agree with me completely that these products should not be used. Although the “chemicals are ok crowd” have no problem with synthetic fertilizers and herbicides, they do acknowledge that the two weed and feed ingredients aren’t suitable to be applied at the same time. The preemergent herbicide part of the mix needs to be applied about 2 months earlier than the soluble fertilizer part of the product. Plus, we agree that atrazine should not be used on residential property because the roots of trees cover the entire property of most lots. The other point is that it is too late to use the synthetic pre-emergents now.
Two you’ve heard advertised the most are Scotts Bonus S and Vigoro Ultra Turf. Both contain atrazine, which is a toxic chemical herbicide that is quite effective at killing your trees and shrubs. The other “Weed & Feed” products contain a brew of toxins called Trimec. Both should be avoided. According to W.T. Thompson’s Agriculture Chemicals, Book II Herbicides, 13th Edition, “Atrazine residues may remain in the soil for over one year. May move laterally with water. Also leaches downward. Do not apply near desired plants.” Some things need no further clarification Trimec is a combination of 2,4-D, MCPP and dicamba. The following quote is in Thompson’s book about 2,4-D. “Very susceptible plants include cotton, tomatoes, grapes, fruit trees, and ornamentals. Do not apply near desired plants”. “Heavy rains will not leach all the chemical out of the soil”. And on MCPP or Mecoprop “Do not use the first cutting after treatment as a mulch for flowers and vegetables.” And on dicamba - “Do not apply in the drip line of desired trees.” Do any of these products sound like they should be used around your trees?
Organic fertilizers don’t have these risks. If you have already made the mistake of using one of these toxic, destructive products, here’s the detox plan:
Apply the activated carbon product NORIT and then drench the site with Garrett Juice plus 2 oz. of orange oil per gallon. Then add dry molasses at 10 lbs. per 1,000 square feet and start the Basic Organic Program.
Q. We bought a home that was used as rental property for many years. As a result the yard (1/2 an acre) is mostly weeds (the round sticker kind), nutgrass and clover. How can I prepare the soil for turf? Do I kill the weeds first? How do I accomplish this without poisoning my kids and dog? How long must I wait to plant turf after getting rid of the weeds? We have a pool and the stickers are such a nuisance! – L.R., Dallas
A. Spray the entire area right now with straight 20% vinegar or mix 1-2 oz. orange oil and 1 teaspoon liquid soap into straight 10% pickling vinegar per gallon. Commercial organic herbicides include Garden-Ville Organic Weed Control, Weed Eraser, Burn Out and Scythe. After the weeds have died, till 1” deep and add a thin layer of compost or humate at 10 lbs. per 1,000 square feet. Wait at least a week and then add dry molasses at 10 lbs. per 1,000 square feet and till a little deeper this time. Smooth out the new seed bed and plant the new seed or sod. If the area if in full sun, plant solid sod Bermuda, St. Augustine, zoysia or buffalo. Full sun areas can also be planted with the seed of buffalo or Bermuda. Shady areas will need St. Augustine or ground cover. Any open joints left in the solid sod should be filled with a mixture of Texas greensand, lava sand and compost. By the way, there is no waiting period for planting after spraying with the organic herbicides.
Q. I have a brown patch problem in my St. Augustine lawn. Last fall I used a fungicide, 2 applications. I’m not sure the problem is fixed and would like to start using cornmeal to prevent it from happening again. I haven’t used any other chemicals on my lawn and the last time I fertilized was last Spring. Is there something I need to do before I apply the cornmeal since I used the fungicide in the Fall? I am new to organic lawn care, but very interesting in making the switch. – P.B., Dallas
A. It would be best to use the Alliance Soil Amendment product that contains wheat bran, dry molasses and horticultural cornmeal. You can make your own by blending 60% wheat bran, 30% horticultural cornmeal and 10% dry molasses.
Q. In your weekly column where you addressed growing hostas and the slug problem; I have not had any trouble with slugs on my hostas, and I have a lot of hostas. I mulch heavily with shredded leaves from the oaks, ash and pecans. I save leaves in the fall and store them in my barn in trash bags, then apply them in my flower beds. I don’t know if this has anything to do with the slugs staying off the hostas. I keep the area pretty wet, but really haven’t seen any slugs at all.
A. Great. Thanks very much for the report. |
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