DIRT DOCTOR ORGANIC NEWS  -  TREE PLANTING DETAIL

This is the tree planting detail in my latest book, Texas Gardening - The Natural Way.  

         Proper Tree Planting

Video - Planting a Tree the Organic Way

One of the most important points in the book is applicable anywhere in the country - the world actually - and that is how to plant trees properly. Almost all trees these days are being planted poorly and the most serious infraction is planting too deep.  When the top of the root ball and the root flare are buried in the ground, circling and girdling roots are hidden and many trees today are blowing over as a result.  Even if that never happens, when soil is too high on the trunks of trees, the covered bark tissue stays moist all the time and plant growth is dramatically slowed or even stopped.  Trees that are too deep can be uncovered with the Air Spade or by hand, but the best solution is to plant trees correctly in the first place.  You will notice that I also do not recommend staking, wrapping trunks or using other unnecessary and damaging techniques.

The detailed description of my planting techniques are as follows:

1.  DIG AN UGLY HOLE

The hole should be dug exactly the same depth as the height of the ball.  Do not guess - actually measure the height of the ball.  Never plant trees in slick-sided or glazed holes such as those caused by a tree spade or auger, unless the slick sides are destroyed at planting.  Holes with glazed sides greatly restrict root penetration into the surrounding soil, can cause circling roots and consequently limit proper root development.

2.  RUN A PERK TEST

Simply fill the hole with water and wait until the next day.  If the water level does not drain away overnight, a drainage problem is indicated.  At this point, the tree needs to be moved to another location or have drainage added in the form of a PVC drain line set in gravel running from the hole to a lower point on the site.  Another draining method that sometimes works is a pier hole dug down from the bottom of the hole into a different soil type and filled with gravel.  A sump from the top of the ball down to the bottom of the ball does little if any good.  Positive drainage is critical, so do not shortcut this step.  Spraying the sides of the holes with Garrett Juice or hydrogen peroxide will help initial root establishment.

3.  PLANT HIGH

Most trees are planted too deep in the ground.  The root flare is part of the trunk and should be placed above ground.  Remove burlap, excess soil and mulch from the surface to expose the true top of the ball.  The top of the root ball should be slightly higher than ground grade.

Remove the excess soil from the top of the root ball and remove the "bird's nest" or circling roots.  Place the tree in the center of the hole, making sure that the top of the ball is slightly higher than the surrounding grade.  Backfill with the soil that was removed from the hole.  This is a critical point.  Do not add sand, foreign soil, organic matter or fertilizer into the backfill.  The roots need to start growing in the native soil from the beginning.  When the hole is dug in solid rock, topsoil from the same area should be used.  Some native rock mixed into the backfill is beneficial.  Adding amendments such as peat moss, sand or foreign soils to the backfill not only wastes money, but is detrimental to the tree.  Putting gravel in the bottom of the hole is a total waste of money.

When planting balled and burlapped plants, leave burlap on the sides of the ball after planting, but loosen at the trunk and remove the burlap from the top of the ball.  Remove any nylon or plastic covering or string, since these materials do not decompose and can girdle the trunk and roots as the plant grows.  Studies have shown that even wire mesh should be removed to avoid root girdling because wire does not break down very fast.

When planting from plastic containers, carefully remove plants and tear the outside roots if they have grown solidly against the container. Never leave plants in containers.  Bare-rooted, balled and burlapped as well as container plant materials should be planted the same way.  When planting bare-rooted plants, it is critical to keep the roots moist during the transportation and planting process.

5.  SETTLE SOIL WITH WATER

Water the backfill very carefully, making sure to get rid of all air pockets.  Do not tamp the soil or air pockets will be formed and roots will be killed in these spots.

6.  DO NOT WRAP OR STAKE

Trunks of newly planted trees should not be wrapped.  It is a waste of money, looks unattractive, harbors insects and leaves the bark weak when removed.  Tree wrapping is similar to a bandage left on your finger too long.  If you are worried about the unlikely possibility of sunburn, it is much better to paint the trunk with a diluted latex paint that matches the color of the bark.  White is OK too.

Staking and guying is usually unnecessary if the tree has been planted properly with the proper earth ball size of at least 9" of ball for each 1" of trunk diameter.  Staking is a waste of money and detrimental to the proper trunk development of the plant.  In rare circumstances (sandy soil, tall evergreen trees, etc.) where the tree needs to be staked for a while, connect the guy wires as low on the trunk as possible and remove the stakes as soon as possible.  Never leave them on more than one growing season.  Temporary staking should be done with strong wire and metal eyebolts screwed into the trunk.  Staking should only be done as a last resort - it is unsightly, expensive, adds to mowing and trimming costs, and restricts the tree's ability to develop tensile strength in the trunk and trunk diameter.  It can also cause damage to the cambium layer.  Remove all tags.

7.  DO NOT PRUNE

It is very bad advice to prune at planting to compensate for the loss of roots during transplanting or planting.  Most trees fare much better if all the limbs and foliage are left intact.  The more foliage, the more food can be produced to build the root system.  Even low limbs and foliage should be left on the tree for at least two growing seasons to aid root development.  The health of the root system is the key to the overall health of the tree.  The only trees that seem to respond positively to thinning at the time of transplanting are field-collected live oak, yaupon holly and a few other evergreens.  Plants purchased in containers definitely need no pruning, and deciduous trees never need to be thinned.

Mulch the top of the ball after planting with 1" of compost and then 3" of mulch tapering to 0" at the tree trunk.  This step is important in lawn areas or in beds.  Do not ever plant grass over the tree ball until the tree is established.

People don’t grow trees.  Trees grow in spite of people.  For the most part, trees are tough, durable and easy to plant and transplant if treated in a sensible and natural way.