Earthworms, Raising: Use almost any shallow, opaque container as your worm composting bin. It should have small drainage holes in the bottom and should be elevated about an inch off the ground. It should also have a lid with air holes to keep moisture in and keep light (and cats, and other animals) out. Metal wash tubs, plastic containers, or a wooden boxes (except redwood and red cedar, which are too acidic) will do, as long as they haven’t been exposed to pesticides, wood preservatives, or other toxins. Keep the bins indoors or in a protected shaded area outside. The size of your bin will depend on the amount of food scraps your household generates. Generally, a surface area of 1 square foot per person is adequate. It’s important that the bin be no more than 14” deep. If the bin is too deep, the bottom layers of bedding and food scraps will begin to settle and the lack of air will prohibit decomposition. Totally digested material can be used as a high quality organic fertilizer.

Epsom Salts: Epsom salt is made by treating magnesium, hydroxide or carbonate with sulfuric acid. Epsom salts is the common name for magnesium sulfate. Magnesium is a vital element in the production of chlorophyll in plants. A deficiency shows in the discoloration of the leaves between the veins, which develops into dead areas if the condition is allowed to persist. Epsom salts is a fast-acting source of magnesium and sulfur normally used as a foliar feed, but it can also be applied to soil. Use 1 tablespoon per gallon and spray monthly if needed on flowering plants. Broadcast at the rate of 5-10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. It can also be applied by putting a small amount in transplant holes of vegetables and flowers. Epsom salt is not a natural organic product, but is acceptable to use.

F-68 Soil Conditioner: Liquid soil amendment product that contains microorganisms and organic materials. It helps to control root rot, soil fungi, nematodes, vine decline, pink root and reduces soil salinity. Available from the Fenic Co., P.O. Box 1500, Mercedes, TX 78570, 210-565-6120. Vegetable growers in the Rio Grande Valley have experienced excellent results using a mix of humic acid and F-68 through the irrigation drip system.

Fireplace Ashes:   Ashes are a concentration of mineral salts.  They have a bad reputation but are an excellent ingredient for the compost pile and good as a soil amendment if not overused. Organiphobes will cry that fireplace ashes are alkaline and should never be used in the black and white soils. Well, what are fireplace ashes? They are basically trees with the carbon burned away. Ashes are a concentration of mineral salts, including nitrogen, potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium, along with many trace minerals. Mix fireplace ashes into the compost pile up to 20 percent of the pile or apply directly on the soil at 20-40 pounds per 1,000 square feet. They are the most effective for acid soils.

Fish Emulsion: A concentrated liquid fish fertilizer for use directly in the soil or as a foliar feed. The analysis will range from 4-1-1 to 5-2-2. It is reported also to be an effective insecticide. All-purpose spray is made by mixing with liquid seaweed. Fish emulsion an odor for about 24 hours – a pretty strong one, in fact. Fish hydrolosates are better because they use the whole fish. Foliar feed plant per label instructions.

Fish Meal: Approximate analysis is 12-1-1. Fish meal has lots of vitamins and minerals, but is smelly. It is a natural fertilizer originally used in this country by native Americans growing corn. Fish meal is one of the most powerful natural fertilizers, but it’s expensive and stinky, so use with caution. Use at 10-30 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Zeolite can be blended into fish to the rate of 5% to eliminate the odor by tying up the ammonia. Floating Gro-Cover: Generic term for gardening fabric designed to envelope plants in a moist, greenhouse warmth while allowing water, light, and ventilation for proper plant respiration. Protects foliage from chewing insects, prevents flies and moths from laying eggs, and reduces diseases carried by pests. Birds, rabbits, and other animals are discouraged from feeding on plants.

Fly Parasites: Beneficial adult fly parasites lay their eggs inside fly pupae, killing their host while the wasps propagate. These wasps are completely harmless to people and livestock. Early applications of fly parasites and continued releases throughout the season are recommended. Fly parasites are shipped inside fly pupae. Parasitize fly pupae are usually packed in wood shavings or similar material to insulate against damage during shipment. These parasites eat the fly maggots, so adult flies never emerge. Use bi-weekly, early season releases while needed. Release in the barnyard, on manure or compost, and on other decomposing organic matter where flies are breeding; 500 fly parasites are recommended each month for each cow or horse stabled. May be stored up to 30 days in the refrigerator.

Foliar Feeding: Foliar feeding has been used since 1844 when it was discovered that plant nutrients could be leached from leaves by rain. Experiments soon proved that nutrients could also enter the plant through the foliage. It’s still somewhat of a mystery as to just exactly how the nutrients enter the plant through the foliage – but it is known and agreed that it works and works quickly. For something further to think about, there is also evidence that nutrients can be absorbed through the bark of trees. Spray away! Foliar feeding will increase the storage life of food crops. It will also increase cold and heat tolerance. Less is usually better in foliar sprays. Light, regularly applied sprays are better than heavy, infrequent blasts. Mists of liquids are better than big drops, unless you are also trying to control pests.

Organic foliar feedings can help control insects and disease as well as fertilize and stimulate plants. The best foliar feeding spray is Garrett Juice, a mix of compost tea, natural apple cider vinegar, liquid seaweed, and blackstrap molasses. See the Appendix for the exact recipe.

Some spray products are stimulators rather than feeders. They work by stimulating plant growth and flower/fruit production by increasing photosynthesis in the foliage, increasing the movement of fluids and energy within the plant, increasing root exudates and microbiotic activity in the soil at the root zone, and increasing the uptake of nutrients from the soil through the root hairs. In other words, foliar feeding can provide missing or “locked up” elements as well as stimulate all of the natural systems in the plant and in the soil. The end result is bigger, stronger, healthier plants with increased drought, insect, and disease resistance.

When food crops or ornamentals have a chlorotic symptom (yellow leaves with green veins) resulting from lack of iron, magnesium or other soil elements, spraying the foliage with a chelated product can create a greening improvement within a few days. Organic products have natural chelating abilities. Plants need green foliage to be able to produce food through the process of photosynthesis where sunlight, water, and carbon dioxide combine in the leaves to produce sugars and carbohydrates to feed the plant.

Young foliage seems to absorb nutrients better than old, hard foliage. Therefore, foliar feeding is most effective during the periods of new growth on plants.

Here are some points to remember when using foliar sprays: High humidity increases a leaf’s ability to absorb sprays. Spraying on damp mornings or evenings will increase the effectiveness of the spray. The small openings (stomata) on the leaves close up during the heat of the day so that moisture within the plant is preserved. The best time of day to spray is late afternoon for pest control. Daybreak is best for foliar feeding.

Some foliar sprays such as fish emulsion, compost tea, humate and seaweed are fertilizers. When fertilizer nutrients are sprayed directly on the foliage, immediate results can often be seen because the micronutrients, when taken in through the foliage, are immediately available to the plant.

Garden Ville

San Antonio fertilizer, compost and pest control company founded by Malcolm Beck and now owned by Texas Disposal Systems. Some of the products are as follows:

Lawn and Garden Soil is a compost enriched garden soil for all flowers and vegetables.

Potting Soil is a professional container mix with compost, worm castings, perlite, red sand, cedar flakes

Rose Soil is acidic soil for roses and other acid-loving plants. Two time Nicholson Cup winner.

Bat Guano is nature’s finest organic fertilizer. Harvested at Garden-Ville’s exclusive Bracken Cave.

Compost is Garden-Ville’s famous manure compost – sludge free, uniform, fine. For soil amendment and topdressing.

Compost Microbes is ideal for jump-starting compost piles for faster breakdown.

Efficient “Z” – Zeolite – a natural mineral – vastly improves nutrient exchange in soils. Absorbs contaminants.

Texas Greensand is a natural iron source (13%) for alkaline Texas soils. For all turf and garden applications – even golf courses.

Humate A refined humic acid – compost in its most evolved form.

Kelp Meal A natural seaweed fertilizer and feed additive.

Seaweed Powder A refined seaweed extract – clean, pure, water soluble.

Volcanite A unique blend of paramagnetic rock powders, including lava sand, basalt, mill sand, greensand, and zeolite. 7%+ iron

Garrett Juice A foliar feeding product for more direct nutrient absorption. Contains compost tea, apple cider vinegar, molasses

Molasses GV is energy for soil microbes

Sea Tea Fish Emulsion The best of everything for liquid fertilization – fish emulsion, seaweed extract, humic acid, compost tea, molasses.

Seaweed Liquid is a product the rosarians swear by. Foliar nutrients, plus insecticidal properties.

Tree Trunk Goop is a mixture of compost, natural diatomaceous earth and soft rock phosphate that is mixed with water and applied.

Cedar flakes are ground to a fine consistency and cooked to remove oils.

Cedar Mulch (Red Native) is recycled double-shredded mulch from area cedar clearing projects.

Living Mulch is recycled double-shredded mulch from tree trimmers plus 50% Garden-Ville compost. Mulch and amend in one shot.

Pecan Mulch is recycled and aged to eliminate phytotoxic effects of fresh pecans. Dark reddish brown.

Diatomaceous Earth is a feed grade horticultural DE. Natural insecticide that rubs hard-shelled insects to death.

Soil Conditioner Auntie Fuego is an original orange-based mound drench plus molasses and humate to condition soils.

Rocket Fuel is a starter fertilizer for transplants and cuttings. Works in direct contact with roots.

Rock Phosphate is 22% total Phosphorus. Non-burning phosphorus root stimulator.

Soil Food 5-3-2 a starter fertilizer for new lawns and gardens. Green sand fortified for iron (2%)

Soil Food 6-2-2 is a slow release garden and rose fertilizer. Made from a variety of feed-grade meals and trace elements. Urea-free.

Sick Tree Treatment is a product containing all of the ingredients of the Sick Tree Treatment program with the exception of cornmeal.

Soil Food 7-2-2 is a best selling specialty lawn and garden fertilizer.

Soil Food 9-1-1 is designed for St. Augustine, but effective on all turf projects for quick green-up and long lasting results. Urea-free.

Garlic/Pepper Tea: An organic insect and disease control material made from the juice of garlic and hot peppers such as jalapeno, habanero, or cayenne. This is one of the few preventative controls that I recommend. It is effective for both ornamental and food crops.

Garrett Juice

Garrett Juice evolved over a period of years as I would tell readers and callers how to make an effective foliar feeding mix.  The mix has always had compost, tea, molasses and seaweed, but the other ingredients have varied.  Through trial and error, we came to the basic mix we use today.  As always, my formulas are for making the mix at home, but there are commercial products on the market for convenience. 

My recommended basic formula is available commercially under the Garden-Ville and Nature's Guide labels.  Garrett Juice Plus from Soil Mender is the newest product and contains liquid fish.  It comes in a concentrate and ready to use mix. 

To make your own, here are the instructions:

Mix the following in a gallon of water.

Garrett Juice (ready to spray):
1 cup compost tea
1 ounce molasses
1 ounce natural apple cider vinegar
1 ounce liquid seaweed

For Garrett Juice Plus and more fertilizer value add: 
1- 2 ounces of liquid fish (fish hydrolysate) per gallon of spray.

For disease and insect control add:
¼ cup garlic tea or
¼ cup garlic/pepper tea
or 1 - 2 ounce of orange oil

For homemade fire ant killer add:  2 ounces of orange oil per gallon of Garrett Juice

Note 1:  To avoid burning plant foliage, the ready-to-use solution should not have more than 2 ounces of orange oil per gallon of spray.

Note 2:  We now know why the mix works so well, not only on the foliage, but also in the soil.  The ingredients are a well balanced blend of nutrients and food for both beneficial fungi and bacteria. 

Garrett Juice Concentrate: Mix the following: 1 gallon of compost tea or liquid humate, 1 pint liquid seaweed, 1 pint apple cider vinegar, and 1 pint molasses. To make Garrett Juice Plus add 1 pint fish hydrolysate. Use 1½ cups per gallon of water for the spray.

Glauconite:   Better known as greensand, an iron potassium silicate that’s green in color. It is a rounded, soft but stable aggregate of finely divided clay. The most common glauconite mineral is the greensand of New Jersey which was deposited near the “mud line” surrounding the continental shores many millions of years ago. See greensand.

Granite Sand: Sand-like residue from the granite quarry or natural deposits. Excellent way to add minerals to planting beds. Much better than washed concrete sand. Contains 5% potash and many trace minerals. Also has paramagnetism, but less than lava sand. Approximate analysis is 0-0-5. Granite is a low cost source of minerals, especially potash. It is sand-like residue from the granite quarry or natural deposits. Granite dust or granite stone meal is a natural energy and potash source. Its potash content varies between 3 and 5 percent and it contains valuable trace mineral elements. Granite dust can be used as a topdressing or worked directly into the soil. In the garden, suggested rates of application are 10-100 pounds per 1000 square feet; on the farm, 1 to 2 tons per acre. Research at Garden-Ville farm proved granite sand very beneficial. It made southern peas turn green in an 8.3 pH soil. Peas nearby with same growing conditions but no granite sand remained chlorotic and had poor growth.

HastaGr Since HastaGro is a liquid and applied as a foliar spray, the nutrients are taken directly through the leaves, which means faster more efficient absorption of the fertilizers. Contains chelated micronutrients including iron and organic complexing agents.

GreenSense: GreenSense is a complete line of organic products that include lawn and garden fertilizers and pest control products. Distributed through Rohde’s, 1651 Wall St., Garland, TX, 972/864-1934.

Greensand: Greensand is a natural marine deposit that occurs all over the United States. Texas greensand is a relatively new discovery. Its major difference is it contains somewhere between 19-20% iron and is very effective in the high calcium soils which we call the black and white soils.

Gro Web: A brand name for floating row cover. A lightweight synthetic material for covering plants to protect them from insects, wind and cold. It gives some frost protection but does not overheat the plants as plastic does when it is not removed in time. The material screens out many troublesome insects and works better than netting to prevent bird damage to grapes and fruit. It tends to hide the fruit in the first place, but even if the birds see the fruit, they can’t get to it. The branches of the grape vine or fruit don’t grow through it as they do netting. This makes the material easier to remove at the end of the season than traditional bird netting is. This net or web works by preventing the plants from being stressed in several different ways. It helps photosynthesis in plants by defusing and reflecting sunlight all over the plant in moderate amounts instead of being too hot and intense in one spot and from one angle. When applied early it completely prevents insects from inoculation, tomato plants with viruses.

Gypsum: Gypsum is a natural mineral having many uses. It is an excellent soil amendment to improve the water penetration of heavy clay soils especially those with high levels of sodium. Gypsum neutralizes and leaches out the harmful salts. Gypsum contains the best available source of calcium and sulfur (calcium sulfate) to necessary plants and nutrients. Gypsum increases fertilizer effects in many cases. Gypsum is a nontoxic no burning material and can be used on alkaline or clay soils that are deficient in calcium and sulfur. This natural material is calcium sulfate and is an excellent source of calcium and sulfur. Gypsum also neutralizes plant toxins, removes sodium from the soil, and opens the soil structure to promote aeration and drainage. Gypsum is approximately 23% calcium and 17% sulfate. It is not usually needed in high calcium soils. Gypsum can be applied with a broadcast spreader or by hand. For lawns 80-100 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Established lawns 40-60 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Vegetable and flower gardens 20-25 pounds mixed into the soil per 100 square feet prior to planting. For established trees and shrubs 80-100 pounds per 1,000 square feet is the rate. Gypsum is not normally recommended in soils that have adequate calcium and sulfur. It contains approximately 23% calcium and 17% sulfate and is often used to reclaim alkali soils. Gypsum replaces the sodium of the alkali soils with calcium and can improve drainage, aeration and thus the health and plant growth of the soil. There is some disagreement on how beneficial gypsum is in soils that have adequate levels of calcium. Tests at Garden-Ville farm found no harmful effects when used at the rate of 100 pounds per 100 square feet, even in high calcium, high pH garden soil. This was only a test. We don’t recommend this rate.

Hay: The top growth of green forage crops usually dried to a moisture content of about 25 percent or less. The sooner it is cured and stored the better because nutrient losses begin the minute hay is cut. Broadleaf herbicides are the biggest concern. Some, especially 2,4-D and Picloram and long lasting and extremely hard to break down. Picloram contamination can even last through digestion of the grazing animals and then composting. Picloram contaminated hay is especially hard on plants in the nightshade family, tomatoes, peppers, tomatoes, eggplant and tobacco. It is also sold under the names Pinene, Borlin, Grazon and Tordon. Even the manufacturer (Dow Elanco) states that Picloram will stay in the cow’s urine for seven days.

Horse Manure: Horse manure is higher in nitrogen than most other farm animal manures and is an excellent material to use for the manufacture of compost. Fresh manures should not be tilled directly into the soil unless they are applied a month before planting. Use horse manure on unimproved soil at 1 ton per acre. For ongoing use it’s best to compost the material first.

Hou-Actinite: Granular organic fertilizer manufactured from sludge; 6-3-0 analysis with 2% iron. Its nutrients are derived from activated sludge from the Department of Public Utilities – Wastewater Operations, Houston, TX. It is marketed by MBT Fertilizers, Inc. 800-500-1901, 414-769-1901. A low priced fertilizer that is acceptable in an organic program if the heavy metals are kept at low levels.

Humate: Humate is a generic name for humic materials – salt forms of humic acid. They are most commonly low grade lignite coal. Humates regulate water-holding capacity, have extremely high ion exchange capacities, and reduce soil erosion by increasing the cohesive forces of the very fine soil particles. Very low concentrations of humates have been shown to stimulate seed germination and root growth. They have also been shown to stimulate desirable soil microorganisms. The percentage of humic acid in a humate will vary from product to product. Humates may be made into liquid form or used in the dry form. Analysis test done for Garden-Ville at a competent lab found Hou-Actinite lower in lead and arsenate.

Hydrogen Peroxide: A liquid oxygenating product. Hydrogen peroxide is not a good source of oxygen. It is toxic at any level where you would get sufficient oxygen in a water solution. As a greenhouse mist it should be used no more than one part per million in air and a complete change out before entering the area unprotected. Used incorrectly hydrogen peroxide can be the source of considerable plant damage.

Iron Sulfate: Sold as copperas, it helps to create an acid soil condition. It is used as a fertilizer catalyst, wood preservative, herbicide, soil acidifier and iron supplement. Can be used in the compost (1 pound per cubic yard). Microbes will chelate. It’s a nasty material. We really don’t recommend its use.

K-Mag: See Sul-Po-Mag

Kelp Meal: Approximate analysis is from 1-0-2 to 1-2-8 with lots of trace minerals. Seaweed is a source of enzymes, nutrients, and hormones. Kelp meal is a dry fertilizer made from seaweed. It is an excellent source of plant hormones that stimulate root growth and regulate plant growth. Seaweed also provides soil conditioning substances that improve the crumb structure or tilth. It is a good natural source of copper and boron. Use at 20-40 pounds per 1,000 square feet or 300-500 pounds per acre.

Kelp and seaweed are the same. Large brown seaweed, especially the families Laminariaceae and Fucaceae have been found valuable as soil conditioners. Ascophyllum nodosum is the species that has the most university research. Kelp is available in liquid or dry meal form.

K-Mag: K-Mag and Sul-po-mag are one and the same product, mined from same location, but by 2 separate companies. The scientific name “langbeinite”. See Sul-Po-Mag.

Lac Balsam: Pruning cut wound dressing material that remains soft and allows air transfer to the wound. I don’t recommend pruning paint in general but when a covering has to be used for some reason, this product and natural shellac are by far the best choices. Available from Rohde’s Industries, Dallas, TX 864-1934.

Lava Sand: The sand-sized and smaller waste material left from lava gravel mining is an excellent, high-energy soil amendment material. It can be used in potting soils, germination media, and bed preparation. Lava sand, or lava in any size, increases the water holding capacity of the soil and increases the paramagnetism. The result is increased production of any plant crop. Broadcast at 40-80 pounds per 1,000 square feet. (1 ton per acre) or till into new beds at 80-150 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Lava sand works in potting soil, propagation flats and in any container plants. If possible use lava sands with high paramagnetic count. Lava sand offers a physical improvement to the soil that moves unhealthy, unbalanced soils toward balance. The mineral make up of lava sand is less important than the shape of each piece of sand. The angular, porous pieces of lava hold and exchange nutrients efficiently and they attract and redistributed cosmic energy in the soil. Cosmic energy is a fancy term for the sun’s energy. The sand-sized and smaller waste material left from lava gravel is an excellent, highly paramagnetic soil-amendment material. It can be used in potting soils and bed preparation for all landscaping and food crops. Finer textured material is even better. Lava sand is magical stuff. Dr. Phil Callahan, the scientist who probably understands more about the secrets of nature than anyone on earth, taught me to teach people to add lava sand to the soil. When he explains the reason why, it sounds so simple and makes so much sense, but when I try to explain it, there’s often something lost in the translation.

Here are some of the ways to use lava sand for greater plant production. Sick trees – broadcast under the trees at 40-80 pounds/1,000 square feet. For more effective results on sicker trees, drill 2” holes 12-18” deep throughout the root zone and fill with 50% lava sand and 50% compost. Roses – add to rose bed preparation at 80 pounds per 1,000 square feet and to the top of roses in pots at a rate heavy enough to cover the soil surface red. Gently work into the top 1”. Turf broadcast at 40 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Bed preparation – till together with compost and organic fertilizer. Use 40-80 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Potting soil – add up to 1/3 the volume of good potting soil. Lava sand – magic? No, it just helps the physics, chemistry and biology of the soil. Shortly after I had turned north Texas and Oklahoma on to this fascinating natural material the questions started coming in. “OK, it’s working great, but why? What’s in lava sand that’s making plants respond so strongly?” At this point I really didn’t know for sure other than what Dr. Callahan had told me about energy and paramagnetism. I knew that trying to explain paramagnetic energy to organic gardeners would be difficult and explaining it to organiphobes would be a total waste of time. So, I tried another angle. A soil test. I sent some lava sand, which had been brought into the Dallas/Fort Worth area from New Mexico, to K. Chandler at Texas Plant and Soil Labs in Edinburgh. The results were interesting but puzzling. The nutrient value was almost nil and the pH was 8.2. How was this stuff working to make plants grow so well? I had never seen any chlorosis (iron deficiency) come on from using lava around susceptible plants such as sweetgum, dogwood or photinia. In fact, I saw just the opposite. Yellowing plants greened up. How could that be? It could be because pH is an indicator only – not a controller. Many factors in the soil are more important than pH. Lava sand addresses those factors. Lava holds water, just at the right level for a long time. If the soil has good moisture and a balance of minerals, organic matter, microbes and earthworms, plant production will be good. The paramagnetism of the lava sand helps make all that happen.

Leather Tankage: Leather tankage is a high-nitrogen slaughter house by-product. Several organic fertilizers are derived from leather tankage. Some tankage contains chemicals used in the tanning process making it unacceptable in an organic program. Leaves: Leaves are one of the most important natural sources of organic matter, humus, and trace minerals. Leaves should be left where they fall, mulched into to turf or put into the compost pile. They all should be used and can be mixed with other organic materials. Leaves should never be burned or bagged and sent to the dump or landfill.

Leonardite Shale: A clay-based or low-grade lignite coal derived from the weathering of surface material. These humates are used as soil amendments to increase organic matter levels and microorganisms activity. It is a good carbon source. Percentages of humic acid will vary. It may be mixed into liquid form or used in the dry form and is an excellent source of humic acid and trace minerals. Approximately 70 million years ago there were swamps, deltas, and streams covering most of the west. Some were salt water, and some fresh water. In all cases organic material was deposited and covered by either clay or sand. Over the years these layers of organic material were slowly compressed in the earth to form oil, coal, and humate. As mountains lifted, the lower areas were exposed to the air. This exposure increased oxidation, thereby, freeing and concentrating the humic acids.

Lime Sulfur: fungicide (calcium polysulfide) for fruits, berries, roses, nuts, and ornamental plants. Spray plants as buds swell, but before they open. It is effective for powdery mildew, anthracnose, peach leaf curl, brown rot. Insects it controls include scale, mites and others. Not a commonly used product anymore.

Lime: A major calcium fertilizer, dolomitic lime contains 30-35% magnesium. High-calcium lime is preferred because most low calcium soils have plenty of magnesium. High calcium lime is calcium carbonate. Chemically, lime is the oxide of calcium, with the formula CaO. It occurs in limestone, marble and chalk as calcium carbonate. Finely ground limestone is the best form to use because it will be more available to plants. There are two kinds of limestone, calcic and dolomitic. Low calcium soils usually have ample magnesium so the high calcium or calcic lime is the best calcium source. Dolomitic lime contains 30-35% magnesium. High-cal lime contains only 10% magnesium.

Limestone: A high-calcium source of lime often used to correct calcium deficiencies and low pH. Contains 94% calcium carbonate. Should be broadcast and worked into soil. Helpful to put small amount (1-3 lbs.) in each hole when planting trees in calcium-deficient areas. Spread on soil at 2-10 lbs./100 sq. ft. (500-4,000 lbs./acre), depending on soil analysis.

Liquid Copper: A flowable formulation of copper salts for fungal control on roses, vegetables, fruits, and ornamentals. It is a good control of powdery mildew, bacterial blights, and anthracnose. We do not recommend copper products.

Live Traps For Animal Pests: Unique traps that capture the animals alive. Place the bait at the rear of the trap and wait for the animal’s curiosity or hunger to take over. Once in the trap, the door closes and locks. Disposal is as easy as releasing the animal outdoors and reusing the trap. Some may choose a more severe final step. Manufacturers include Have-A-Heart and Pied Piper.

Maestro Gr Maestro Gro is a line of organic fertilizers made in Texas. Products include a wide variety of ingredients such as bone meal, fish meal, feather meal, rock phosphates, kelp meal, greensand, and microorganisms. Texas T is a general purpose product within this line. It was one of the first organic fertilizers formulated. Gary DeMasters, Brian DeMasters, P.O. Box 310 121 Lincoln Drive, Lowell, AR 72745, 501-361-9155. Maestro Gro liquids are also available for foliar feeding and pest control.

Manure: The three manures that we know of currently that can be used direct without any processing at all are rabbit, llama and alpaca. For whatever reason, these manures fresh out of the animal are very well buffered and can be used as fertilizer directly on the plants without any fear of burning. In fact they are excellent products in every way. All manures should be recycled back to the land.

Maxicrop Seaweed: Maxicrop seaweed is made from fresh growing Ascophyllum nodosum seaweed harvested off the coast of Norway. Use natural liquefied Norwegian seaweed for feeding of trees, shrubs, flowers, house plants, lawns and vegetables. (1-0-4 powder made from fresh growing Norwegian seaweed). One container makes one gallon of concentrate to be used on house plants, vegetables and lawns. Research has found that Maxicrop seaweed contains: A) A huge complex of cheated trace minerals, to help nullify or lessen trace mineral deficiencies. B) Important bio growth stimulants, which have tremendous effect on seed germination, root development, and general growth. C)Organic sugars that make available all the properties of seaweed to the plant. Benefits of Maxicrop seaweed: A)increase yields, B)improve quality, C)increase resistance to pests and disease. MAXICROP, USA, Inc., P.O. Box 964, Arlington Heights, IL 60006, 1-800-KELP-964.

Medina Products:  Medina and Medina PLUS are products that work with natural processes in the soil and in plants. Medina contains trace elements and natural extracts that act like catalysts to increase microbial activity in the soil, making it more alive and healthy. Medina PLUS contains these same ingredients but also has more plant growth hormones that are obtained by adding natural seaweed extracts. This adds the extra benefits of stimulating root growth and increasing fruiting and blooming, thus making healthier plants. Both products can be used the same way, but for foliar sprays and transplanting solutions, best results are obtained from Medina PLUS.

Medina Compost Starter (powder) – A blend of specially formulated dry organisms. Ideal for compost piles low in organic activity, or when first getting the pile started. Balances the pile with proper waste digesting organisms.

Actina Septic Tank Activator (Liquid) – Keep your septic system running smooth and odor-free! Actina breaks down grease, chemicals and solids that can clog and choke the septic field. Stimulates healthy organisms that are required for normal septic tank operation. Apply directly to the sink or commode. Can also be used in city plumbing to keep drain lines free of odors and grease build-up. Safe for all pipes, safe for the environment, too!

Medina Septic Tank Starter (powder) – Dry bacteria and fungi formulated to digest grease and wastes in the septic system. Ideal for sluggish systems low in microbial activity. Use along with Actina Septic Tank Activator to give your system a good “kick start”.

Medina B.O.C. Biological Odor Control (Liquid) – Get rid of them with new B.O.C. Biological Odor Control. This odorless, non-staining liquid attacks and eliminates the odor problem in minutes. Safe, 100% natural. Use in the kitchen, bathroom, closets, shoes, laundry hampers, pet bedding and housing, trash containers, cars, and boats and everywhere else odors are present. Not just a cover up – a solution!

Medina Soil Activator (Liquid) – According to organic gardening expert John Dromgoole Medina Soil Activator is like Yogurt for the soil because it stimulates the beneficial organisms in the soil. Promotes healthier, stronger root systems because it actually loosens and balances the soil. Excellent for breaking down chemical and salt accumulations that may be impairing soil health. Can be used with any natural, low-chemical or traditional gardening program. Great for compost piles, too!

Medina Plus (Liquid) – We took Medina Soil Activator and added the PLUS. It’s fortified with essential micro nutrients and natural growth regulators. Use for transplanting, foliar feeding and soil building.

HastaGro Liquid Plant Food – A blend of natural plant food supplements, Medina Soil Activator and HuMate Liquid Humus. Low chemical/low salt formulation is gentle even for foliar feeding. Ideal for gardeners making the transition to an organic program. Does contain some urea so is not a pure organic product.

HuMate Liquid Humus – “Concentrated Compost in a Bottle”. A basic product for every gardener. Helps build soil structure and quality without chemicals. Refined into a thick, rich liquid from organic residue found deep below the earth surface. Increases fertilizer and water uptake, chelates trace minerals.

Milky Spore Disease: Attacks and kills Japanese beetle grubs in the soil, requiring only one application for permanent control. Not toxic to insects, earthworms, birds, mammals, humans or plants. The spores multiply inside the grubs, and when the grub infestation subsides, the spores lie dormant in the soil, waiting for subsequent populations, Milky Spore Disease takes 2-3 years to achieve complete control, and should be supplemented during this time with Japanese beetle traps. Use at 10 ounces per 2,500 square feet and 7-10 pounds/acre. Use with beneficial nematodes for best results.

Milorganite: Sewer-sludge fertilizer from Milwaukee. Has been widely used on golf courses. Had a scare for a while that the produce caused Lou Gehrig’s disease but this was proven to be false. It’s best not to use the non-composted sewer sludge products on edible plants. Many cities now make a similar product.

Molasses: Sweet syrup that is a carbohydrate used as a soil amendment to feed and stimulate microorganisms. Contains sulfur, potash, and many trace minerals. Approximate analysis is 1-0-5. Molasses provides food for microorganisms and is a source of carbon, sulfur, and potash. It is a good, quick source of energy for the soil life and microbes in a compost pile, and will chase fire ants. It is a carbon source and feeds beneficial microbes creating greater nature fertility. It’s side benefit is that it repels fire ants. It’s also used as an ingredient in the fire ant control mix. Liquid molasses is used in sprays and dry molasses is used as an ingredient in organic fertilizers. Sweet syrup used as a soil amendment to feed and stimulate microorganisms. Contains sulfur, potash, and other trace minerals. Excellent foliar feeding material and can be mixed with other organic liquids. Use at 2-4 quarts/acre for soil application. For foliar application on broadleaf plants use 1 pint per acre. For grasses and grains still use 1 quart per acre. Blackstrap molasses is the best choice because it contains the sulfur and iron of the original material. Blackstrap molasses is the cow feed molasses.

Mushroom Compost: The material in which mushrooms are grown, consisting mainly of peat, composted straw, gypsum and animal manure. Spent mushroom compost is widely available and is a useful addition to garden soils since it increases the supply of organic matter and water retention. The only negative about mushroom compost is that it is dense and tends to hold water too long at times. Mix coarse textured compost or shredded bark with it to improve the quality.

Mycorrhizae or Mycorrhizal Fungi: Beneficial fungi that lives in association with plant roots. Mycorrhizae, or fungus root as it is sometimes called, is a unique fungi association in the roots of higher plants. Reestablishing the microscopic life in the soil is a major part of the organic program. They are always found in the immediate vicinity of plant roots, the area called the rhizosphere. They exist in a very powerful symbiotic relationship with plant roots. These tiny organisms cover the outside of root hairs, others actually grow into the cells of the roots. In both cases these fascinating microbes become part of the root system making it bigger, stronger and more efficient. The benefits of this natural symbiotic relationship are many. Roots provide a nutritional substrate for the fungi and a supply of carbohydrates. The mycorrhizal fungi provide plant roots with the following.

Increased nutrient uptakes – Mycorrhizal fungi increase the length and the mass of the roots. The result is greater ability to absorb nutrients. The mycelium mass of the fungi can be as much as 1,000,000 times the size of the root mass. Mycorrhizal fungi can also act as biochemical intermediaries and convert nutrients to more available forms.

Drought resistance – Mycorrhizae on plant roots increases the size of the root surface area and expand the amount of soil that a plant is able to access. Mycorrhizae also increases drought tolerance for new tree seedlings as well as established trees.

Disease protection – Mycorrhizal fungi have been shown to protect seedling roots and mature tree roots from soil borne diseases. Although less widely appreciated than other benefits, disease protection may be one of the most important reasons to protect and encourage mycorrhiza in the forest, in landscape beds and in nursery stock. Disease problems are simply microbiotic life that’s out of balance. When the beneficial microbes are alive and plentiful, most pathogens are kept in check.

Better establishment of transplants – One of the most widely acknowledged benefits of mycorrhizae is increased survival and growth of newly planted trees. Quicker root growth, larger root systems and increased disease resistance are the reasons.

Faster growth – If a plant’s roots system is healthy, the plant will be healthy. That’s a good rule of thumb for all species but especially true for trees. When the roots are healthy and extensive, the top of the plant will be vigorous and pest free.

From the Latin words “myco” and “rhizi”, meaning fungus and roots. The term refers to an association between plants and soil – dwelling fungi. A mycorrhizae is beneficial when both partners realize a net gain from the association. Ectomycorrhizae include fungi that form a mantle or sheath around roots with no fungal penetration of root cells. Encomycorrhizae include fungi that penetrate cells of fleshy young roots but form no mantle or sheath. Ectendomycorrhizae are those fungi that both penetrate root cortical cells and form root-surrounding mantles.

Ectomycorrhizal fungi grow symbiotically on the roots of many tree species. These fungi provide nutrients and moisture to the trees, increase their growth rate and improve their ability to survive and compete. The mycorhizal fungi can be considered an extension of the root system. A fine network of fungus threads (hyphae) extracts nutrients from the soil far beyond the bonds of the roots’ capabilities. These nutrients are translocated through the hyphal network to the root system of the tree where they are released.

Nature’s Pride is a thorough line of natural dry and liquid products that are owned and distributed by Marshall Distributing Co. in Fort Worth, Texas. 817-536-0066.

Neem: A biological insect control product. Neem is not a systemic insecticide as a foliar spray, however it is a long lasting systemic insecticide when used as a soil drench. From the neem tree Azadirachta indica, native to India and Burma, it is kin to mahogany and chinaberry thrives in poor soil. It’s a tall tree that resembles the shape of an oak. It produces large white flowers and bears a fruit that’s similar in size and shape to the olive. Extracts of the bitter seeds and leaves as a natural pesticide. It is harmless to humans, animals, and beneficial insects. Pests are unable to build up a genetic resistance which will effect its potency. Neem extracts (the bark is being used in this case) can prevent tooth decay, as well as, prevent and heal inflammation of the gums. It has been added as an active ingredient in several popular toothpastes in that country. Neem is antibacterial, fungicide and antiviral Insect repellent: Neem contains a compound called salannin which biting insects hate. It is more effective at repelling biting insects than the synthetic chemical “deet” which as become the main ingredient of most consumer insect repellents. Insecticide: Neem extracts don’t instantly kill pests. The insects absorb these compounds which block their endocrine systems and disrupt their reproductive cycle. Neem oil and soaps can be purchased from The Ayurvedic Institute, P.O. Box 23445 Albuquerque, NM 87192 at 505-291-9698. This botanical insecticide is extracted from the seed of the tropical neem tree from India. Neem has been in use for centuries for a wide variety of pests. The active ingredient is azadirachtin, which works by preventing molting, suppressing feeding or repelling, depending on the insect. It does not harm humans, birds, plants, earthworms, or beneficial insects. This product is registered for use on ornamentals (registration is pending on food crops) against aphids, whiteflies, thrips, hornworms, mealybugs, leafminers, gypsy moths, weevils, webworms, loopers, psyllids and sawflies. Tests conducted by USDA showed neem extracts to repel cucumber beetles for up to 6 weeks. Neem is most effective against insects, which pass through all stages of metamorphosis. Neem Oil is a thick, ‘fatty’ oil, with a very strong odor. It has been used in India for centuries in most cosmetics and toiletries, etc. Neem oil is strongly insecticidal and can be used in head lice removers. It is rich in oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid and arachidic acid. It is very moisturizing and used on psoriasis and eczema.

Newspaper: Ok but not great to use as a mulch or ingredient in the compost pile. Black ink can contain heavy metals in the petroleum ingredients. Color ink generally is made from soy and is cleaner but the industry has no consistency at present.

Nicotine Sulfate: An old time, organic pesticide used for the control of hard-to-kill insects. Although it is a quickly biodegradable product, it is extremely dangerous to handle and we do not recommend its use.

Nolo Bait: Nolo Bait is a biological insecticide registered with the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for use on 58 species of grasshoppers, locusts, and some species of crickets. The disease that results from this infection is activated once the spore is ingested by the insects. To enhance ingestion by grasshoppers, the spore is applied to a large, flaky wheat bran carrier. Most pest species of grasshoppers, particularly younger instars (developmental growth stages), are naturally attracted to wheat bran when they are actively feeding. There are about one billion microscopic spores per pound of the carrier. Once formulated, Nolo Bait shelf life is approximately 13 weeks. Be sure to store in a cool, dry place.

Norit: Gro-Safe Powdered Activated Carbon, is a specialty activated carbon manufactured for agricultural applications. It is widely used in agriculture as a soil amendment to protect and enhance plant and turfgrass growth and vigor. Gro-Safe effectively removes organic toxins, such as herbicides, from soil to provide a safe environment for new or existing root systems. Gro-Safe is especially effective in protecting valuable agriculture products where herbicides have been spilled or over-applied. It’s ability to decontaminate soil is beneficial when replanting ornamentals, turfgrass or food crops where pesticides have been previously applied. Because Gro-Safe is a finely ground powder, it may be applied either dry or as a suspended slurry. More details on dosages and methods of incorporation are available from Norit American, Inc.

Nosema Locustae: A biological control for crickets and grasshoppers. It works the same way Bt works on caterpillars. It’s applied as a dry bait, the insects eat the material, get sick, and are cannibalized by their friends. Charming, isn’t it? But it works. Brand names include Nolo Bait, Grasshopper Attack, and Semispore.  It is very effective on the young grasshoppers or nymphs but has questionable effectiveness on adult grasshoppers.

Oils: There are now three types of spray oils: dormant, horticultural, and vegetable. Dormant oils are petroleum based, relatively free of impurities, and have been used as far back as 1880. Dormant oils have lower volatility and more insect-killing power than the other oils, but they can be more toxic to plants. These oils should only be used during the winter months when plants are dormant. Horticultural oils are the lightest and most pure petroleum oils. They can be used for spraying pecan trees and fruit trees, but they are also effective on shrubs and flowers that have scale or other insect infestations. Vegetable oils are plant extracts. They are environmentally safe, degrade quickly by evaporation, fit into organic or integrated pest management programs, are nonpoisonous to the applicator, are noncorrosive to the spray equipment, and kill a wide range of insects. The state of Texas is leaning toward vegetable oils. Drilling lubricants can no longer be petroleum oils.

Orange Oil: The extracted oil from citrus rinds, sold commercially as d-limonene. Used in cleaning products and natural pesticides.

Organic Fertilizers: Organic fertilizers are better than artificial products because they are the derivatives of plants and therefore contain most or all the trace elements that exist in growing plants, probably all 92 basic elements. Synthetic fertilizers do not have this rounded balance of mineral nutrients.

Paramagnetism: Sounds mystic doesn’t it? It’s not. It’s pure physics. According to Callahan, certain minerals are highly attracted to a strong magnet. This positive magnetic reaction is called paramagnetism. It is different from magnetism because no iron is involved. Fertile soil is highly paramagnetic and always contains eroded volcanic rock. Consider Hawaii, Costa Rica and other volcanic soil areas of the world. Sedimental limestone like we have in north Texas is the least paramagnetic of all natural rock. See lava sand for more information.

Peanut Shells: Peanut hulls and shells can be and are used in mulching and composting. Peanut shells contain about 3.6 percent nitrogen, .7 percent phosphoric acid and .45 percent potash. Peanut shell ashes contain .8 percent nitrogen, .15 percent phosphoric acid and .5 percent potash.

Peat Moss: Peat moss is naturally occurring, partially decomposed remains of plants, accumulated over centuries under moist, cool conditions. Peat is used as a soil amendment, fuel, mulch, and an ingredient in potting soil. Peat differs from muck in that muck soils are composed of highly decayed materials. Many of the components of peat can be easily.

Pepper Products: Hot pepper in dry or liquid form functions as an effective pest repellant. By itself or mixed with wax, castor oil and other products works well to repel insects, pests and rodents.

Perlite: A processed volcanic mineral used for soil conditioning, rooting medium and a substitute for sand in potting mixes. Volcanic rock is heated to about 1,800°F, popping it like popcorn. The horticultural grade is a coarse aggregate and is best suited for mixing with other materials such as peat moss and bark for making very light-weight mixes for growing plants. It’s used as a soil amendment to loosen soil and prevent compaction. It breaks down fairly slowly, and helps to maintain soil structure. Perlite is high in fluoride and some people are quite sensitive causing dermatitis.

Pheromone Traps: Traps use pheromone attractants to lure the male of the target species. The pheromone is enclosed in a special membrane which provides a controlled release over an extended time. Each disposable trap attracts a specific insect to the sticky surface inside. They should be hung at least two weeks before the insects are expected to emerge. Check the traps weekly and record the number of target insects caught. Traps last a full season, though dirty trap bottoms full of insects may need more frequent replacement. “Wing” traps are used in orchards and fields. Pheromone traps are used to monitor and/or disrupt the mating activity of certain pest insects. A pheromone is a non-toxic species-specific scent produced by the female insect to attract the male. This scent has been laboratory duplicated for particular insects and concentrated in time release “lures” which attract the male to a sticky glue trap.

Phosphate: The middle number of N-P-K, the phosphate source more commonly used now is triple super phosphate 0-46-0. It is used in most all fertilizers. It is made by treating rock phosphate with phosphoric acid. The end product is considered “naked” and tends to bond with iron, zinc and manganese and other trace minerals and render them unavailable. The old source 0-20-0 was a much better source but can hardly be found anymore.

Pig Manure: Good source of nitrogen and other elements but needs to be composted before using.

Pine Bark: The worse choice of organic matter. Not good as a mulch because it washes and blows away. Slow and mucky in its breakdown. Better than no mulch at all, but barely.

Pine Needles: Good mulch but looks a little strange under plants other than pine trees. Also a good compost ingredient.

Piperonyl Butoxide: (PBO) Synergist used in insecticides in combination with pyrethrins in oil solutions, emulsions, powders or aerosols. Is reported to have caused liver damage. It is primarily used in pyrethrum/diatomaceous earth products but unnecessary. We strongly recommend avoiding this material.

Potassium Bicarbonate: Functions like baking soda as a natural fungicide but contains potassium instead of sodium. Use at 4 teaspoons or 1 rounded tablespoon per gallon.

Potassium Sulfate: Sulfate of potash is made from minerals extracted from the Great Salt Lake. A unique process combines solar energy in a solar evaporation pond system as a first step, and water and natural gas in the final step. The potash and sulfate ions dissolved in the lake water are concentrated and crystallized with solar energy in the large solar evaporation pond system.  It is a much better source of potassium chloride (muriate of potash), a commonly used product.

Poultry Manure: Approximate analysis is 6-4-2. Chicken manure is a good natural fertilizer high in nitrogen. Pelletized forms are better because they are not as dusty. Unfortunately, commercial chickens are still being fed lots of unnatural or toxic natural things. Best to compost before using.

Pyrethrum: An insecticide derived from the flower heads of a summer-blooming perennial, called the painted daisy. It grows one to two feet tall and has fernlike leaves and showy daisy-like flowers in white, pink, red, or lilac. Pyrethrum likes a rich soil and a compost mulch. It is best propagated by root division in the spring.  Available in liquid or dry forms. Will kill a wide range of insects including aphids, beetles, leafhoppers, worms, caterpillars, and ants. It is short-lived and relatively non-toxic to animals. Pyrethrum is dried and powdered painted daisy (Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium). Artificial chemical substitutes, called pyrethroids, should be avoided. Pyrethrin is the active ingredient in the natural product. Even though pyrethrum is a natural product, we no longer recommend it except as a last resort, especially if it contains piperonyl butoxide (PBO). There are less toxic alternatives.

Rabbit Manure: Approximate analysis is from 2-1-5 to 3-2-1. Rabbit manure is not used enough: it is an excellent source of natural nutrition. Mixed with leaves, sawdust, straw, grass, and other vegetative materials, it makes an excellent compost. Rabbit manure is rich in nitrogen, is good for heating a compost pile, or can be applied directly to the garden soil without composting. It can be used on lawns, vegetable gardens, and around trees and shrubs all through the year. Sawdust, straw, dry leaves, grass, cedar flakes, and similar dry materials can be used for litter in the hutch, producing an excellent compost when the dro