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PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2004 11:42 am 
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Since it is bermuda and some bermudas can be mowed weekly at 1/16 of an inch high, I don't see a real problem. I would drop my mower to the lowest setting for a season and see if that changes things for you. If you have reel type mower, so much the better for your grass.

If you get it down to low-growth bermuda, you may never power-rake again.

Here are my three steps to great turf.

1. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds.

2. Mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. Bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses are the most dense when mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. Dense grass shades out weeds and uses less water when tall. Dense grass feeds the deep roots you're developing in 1 above.

3. Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 4 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2004 12:03 pm 
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When you first start changing your watering program, you might saturate the soil to the point of pooling or runoff. If that happens, stop watering and give it 15 minutes to soak in. Then water again to fulful your hour or two requirement. If it does not soak in, then back off. I was able to get my lawn to absorb water by using a soaker hose (black one) for a few weeks. I left it on a s-l-o-w trickle for the entire time. Then it was able to absorb anything I threw at it. That's what you're looking for.

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