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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 8:00 pm 
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I have a one-acre lot and I’ve left the back half natural, with some buffalo grass and other grasses, and some wildflowers. My house sets on the front half of the property but, not counting the landscaping beds, I’ve got about 15,000 – 18,000 square feet of Bermuda grass to maintain. I’ve recently switched to a natural approach, using a natural fertilizer and aerating.

Our development still has plenty of natural areas that spread weed seeds, including dallisgrass and a number of broadleaf varieties. I mow often, and we do as much mechanical removal of weeds as possible, plus I do spot weed killing with Howard’s formula of vinegar, orange oil and molasses. But mowing, hand removal, etc., is insufficient in the spring, when the weeds proliferate. I’ve already got a full-time job, so crawling around 18,000 square feet of property pulling weeds is not going to happen. We’re on a limited budget because of my job situation. I’d like to use corn meal to control weeds, but on my sized lot, it’s cost-prohibitive.

So here’s my question: how do I naturally control weeds, particularly in the spring? I’ve used chemical-based weed-and-feed products in the past, but would really like to stick with the natural approach, which I know will take a while to fully take hold. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Bob


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:09 am 
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Joined: Sat May 03, 2003 10:48 am
Posts: 241
Location: Arlington
Hey Bob;

I have just this year started an organic program on 4 acres of turf and am seeing good results. One thing you can do now that is relativly cheap is to apply dry molasses and a humate product. Increased levels of humic acid in the soil should deter some weeds and will be benificial to your turf. In the Fall and again in the Spring you should apply nine 40lb bags of Corn Gluten Meal to your turf (the dates are posted all over the site). The Fall application is the more important application for Spring weeds. You should be able to work out a good deal on the CGM at a feed store or directly from a mill. Look in the buisness directory on the main site for suppliers in your area and call around. It seems the price of CGM varies widely from store to store.

I hope this helps


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2004 11:16 am 
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Location: San Antonio,TEXAS
The best weed control for turf is proper watering and mowing. Here's the basic plan.

1. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds.

2. Mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. Bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses are the most dense when mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. Dense grass shades out weeds and uses less water when tall. Dense grass feeds the deep roots you're developing in 1 above.

3. Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 4 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above.

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Dirt Doctor Lawns Forum


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