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 Post subject: leaves look burnt
PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2003 3:45 pm 

Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2003 10:38 am
Posts: 1
I have 2 bradford pears and one sweetgum that have, what appears, to be burnt leaves. The leaves look anemic yellow with green on the veins and are burnt at the edges. This, over time, seems to make it's way down the branch and renders the branch void of foliage. I have tried fungial and insecticide sprays and nothing has any effect. People I have talked to don't seem to have a clue either. Any help resolving this would be greatly appreciated!!!

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2003 8:49 am 

Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 8:15 am
Posts: 964
Location: Odenville,Alabama
Try giving the tree a foliar/soil drench of a special aerated compost tea loaded with extra dry molasses, Epsom salt, corn meal, and seaweed.

This should give it extra nutrients for growth and greening up the leaves, plus add extra aerobic microbial power for fighting off any potential diseases on the trees.

The entire Kingdom of God can be totally explained as an Organic Garden (Mark 4:26)
William Cureton

 Post subject: bradford pear disease
PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2003 7:12 am 
There are a couple of disease possibilities:

Fire Blight
A bacterial disease of plants in the rose family in which blossoms, new shoots, twigs and limbs die back as though they have been burned. Leaves usually remain attached but often turn black or dark brown. Prune back into healthy tissue and disinfect pruning tools with a 3-5 percent solution of hydrogen peroxide. Spray plants at first sign of disease with Garrett Juice plus garlic and/or neem. Kocide 101 is a copper based fungicide often recommended, some consider this organic, we don’t. The best recommendation is to spray Garrett Juice plus garlic, treat the soil with horticultural cornmeal, apply the Sick Tree Treatment and reduce the nitrogen fertilizer. High-nitrogen, synthetic fertilizers are the primary cause of this disease.

Cotton Root Rot
You will most likely see disease symptoms show up in June and continue through September. This is when the soil temperatures reach 28oC (82oF). The first symptoms are slight yellowing or bronzing of leaves followed by wilting. Plants die suddenly after the first symptoms of wilting. Leaves remain firmly attached to the plant. Affected plants die suddenly, often after excellent growth. Large trees and shrubs may die more slowly.

The best preventative is healthy soil with a balance of nutrients and soil biology. Controlling the alkalinity of your soil can also help. Solutions include adding sulfur and sometimes sodium to the soil at the rate of 4 to 8 ounces per square foot. Treat the soil with horticultural cornmeal at 10-20 lbs./1,000 sq. ft. Organic soil amendments have proven to provide significant control of the fungal disease.

Plant barriers can also help reduce the spread of the disease. This technique consists of planting resistant species around an obviously infected area. These barriers either exclude or limit the spread of the pathogen. When the disease occurs in an ornamental planting, replace diseased plants with resistant species.

One of the best things you can do to prevent the spread of the disease is to plant resistant varieties in your landscape. If you lose a plant to the disease make sure to replace it with a resistant variety.

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