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 Post subject: Fungus
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:27 am 
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I had a red oak tree that had broken so badly in a storm that I had to have it removed. The removal company said it may have had a fungus that caused the trunk to weaken. I had previously seen some growths at the base of the tree. Well, now that 3 years have passed, I would like to replant with another red oak. Is it OK to replant in the same spot, or should I move it slightly. Will that fungus transfer to my new tree?
Also, is it possible to get fungus from using the mulch that comes from a damaged shredded tree?

thanks,
Renee


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 Post subject: Re: Fungus
PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 9:26 pm 
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Chances are the tree company is putting the cart before the horse. The tree was probably already weak, and the fungus was opportunistic in moving in and helping finish it off.

Assuming there are some roots and stump left, you have many years of various types of mushrooms or fungus appearing on the soil top as the wood rots. And with that material there, digging and planting a new tree on the same spot would be quite a job, but you should be able to safely plant very close nearby.

If you haven't seen any of Howard's demonstrations about how to plant a tree (take it out of the nursery pot, soak the roots, spread them out, and actually bare-root the tree). Peg the roots out to keep them from circling and don't plant it too deep. Be sure the swell at the bottom is above the dirt. There has been a lot of discussion of planting practicies if you look around this site.

Good luck with the next tree!

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 Post subject: Re: Fungus
PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 2:20 pm 
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Just follow a good organic program with plenty of corn meal in the surrounding yard and you should be fine. When the tree is pruned, be sure to paint the wounds.

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 Post subject: Re: Fungus
PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:43 pm 
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Howard is opposed to the practice of painting spots on trees where they have been pruned. The paint does more harm than good. And there is no tree in place right now TO be pruned. But corn meal is a good recommendation for almost any occasion.

If you want the roots or stump to rot faster, drill a few holes and generously sprinkled dried molasses over it. The sugar hastens the breakdown of the wood in the ground. While molasses will encourage biological activity to decay the roots, it will stimulate good stuff in the area for the new tree so you have the best of both worlds.

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 Post subject: Re: Fungus
PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 12:26 am 
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I never listen to Howard. What is his reasoning for not painting tree wounds? I thought it was a law or something. All it does is prevent the bugs from penetrating the open wound on the tree.

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 Post subject: Re: Fungus
PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 9:16 am 
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Here's the link to the article about Pruning Paint in the library:

http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_question/id/41/

And here's the text:

Quote:
Winter is the time to do major tree pruning if your trees need to be pruned but remember that limbs are pruned off trees for your benefit not for the tree benefit. If limbs are bashing into the side of the house or your car windshield as you enter the driveway or into your face as you mow the lawn - cut ‘em off. If you need more light down to plants growing under trees, cut some limbs off. But remember that all these reasons are for your benefit. When you cut a limb you hurt the tree. Thinning does not help a tree’s health. Now, when limbs do need to be moved make a clean cut leaving the branch collar - no flush cuts please and do not use any pruning paint of any kind. Not only is it a waste of money, it’s detrimental. The wounds will heal slowly.

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 Post subject: Re: Fungus
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:07 am 
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Thanks northwesterner. His remark is about pruning in the winter. The problem with insects invading the wounds comes in the warmer weather. By pruning in the winter you do not have to paint the wounds.

IF an oak tree is pruned in the warmer months, the issue is with an insect bringing the oak wilt disease to your tree through the wound by flying insects. By painting the wound, you eliminate that possibility. I'll take slow healing any day to death. Oak wilt spreads by insects through the air and, supposedly, through root contact. In the winter the insects are not moving and you can get away with not painting the wounds. The wounds will heal over before the insects show up in the later spring.

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 Post subject: Re: Fungus
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:44 am 
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I think you're just dying to use pruning paint, and are parsing that statement out too much!

Quote:
. . . and do not use any pruning paint of any kind. Not only is it a waste of money, it’s detrimental. The wounds will heal slowly.


That's pretty clear, and it doesn't put a season on it, though he does tell you that winter is the BEST time for pruning.

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 Post subject: Re: Fungus
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:49 am 
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If the concern is insects reaching freshly-cut and exposed wood at such a limb pruning.....could one place a small round piece of floating row cover material over the branch collar area and affix it with a rubber band ? Better if that cover were a brown color so as to not be so visible....but at least it breathes and insects can not reach the exposed wood while that location dries out and cures.


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 Post subject: Re: Fungus
PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 12:03 am 
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If you have pruned properly, there is nothing to put a rubber band around. The cut should be close to flush with the limb or trunk.

Since Howard is the only person in the region calling for not painting the wound, I'm going ahead and painting the wound. Maybe he'll post his reasoning. I mean he has posted his reasoning, but maybe he'll post his experience or other evidence on the subject. I'll take slow healing any day of the week versus losing a 60-year old tree.

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 Post subject: Re: Fungus
PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2010 1:11 pm 
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drill a few holes and generously sprinkled dried molasses over it. The sugar hastens the breakdown of the wood in the ground. While molasses will encourage biological activity to decay the roots,


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