Basic Organic Program Newsletter
Stimulating and maintaining healthy, biologically active soil is the key. Avoid doing anything that hurts the life in the soil and apply only inputs that benefit the life in the soil.
1. Stop using all synthetic fertilizers, toxic pesticides and other synthetic chemicals that harm beneficial life. High-nitrogen fertilizers are salts and harmful to the soil. Nitrogen-only products are even worse.
2. Build soil health with aeration, compost, rock minerals, sugars, microorganism products and shredded native tree trimmings mulch.
3. Plant native plants and well-adapted introductions, water carefully, mulch bare soil and use low to no-toxicity pest control products.
Bed Preparation - Scrape away existing grass and weeds; add compost, lava sand or other rock minerals, organic fertilizer, cornmeal, dry molasses and till it all into the native soil. Excavation of natural soil and additional ingredients such as concrete sand, peat moss, foreign soil and pine bark should not be used. More compost is needed for food crops, shrubs and flowers than for turf, ground- covers and native plants. Add greensand to black and white soils and high-calcium lime to acid soils. Decomposed granite, rock phosphate and zeolite are effective for most all soils.
Mulching - Mulch bare soil around all shrubs, trees, ground covers and food crops with shredded native tree trimmings to protect the soil from sunlight, wind, rain, weed germination, to decrease watering needs and mediate soil temperature. Other natural mulches can be used, but avoid Bermuda grass hay because of herbicide residue. Also avoid pine bark, cypress mulch, rubber products and chemically-dyed wood products. Do not pile mulch on the stems or trunk flares of plants.
Watering - Water only as needed. The organic program will reduce the frequency and volume of water needed. Add a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar per gallon of water when watering pots. Use 1 ounce of liquid humate in acid soils. Garrett Juice can be used in either case. Be careful of drip irrigation systems because it is difficult to avoid dry and/or water-logged spots especially in groundcover beds and turf. Watering from above with sprinklers is usually best.
Mowing - Mow turf as needed and mulch clippings into the lawn to return nutrients and organic matter to the soil. Put occasional excess clippings in the compost pile. Don’t ever let clippings leave the site. Do not use line trimmers around shrubs and trees. Buffalograss lawns need less water and care than other grasses.
Weeding - Hand pull large weeds and work on soil health for overall control. Mulch bare soil in beds. Avoid all synthetic herbicides including Roundup, 2,4-D, MSMA, pre-emergents, broad-leaf treatments, soil sterilants and the SU (sulfonylurea) herbicides such as Manage and Oust. Spray noxious weeds as needed with vinegar-based, d-limonene or fatty acid herbicides.
Pruning - Do not “lift” or “gut” trees. Remove dead, diseased and conflicting limbs. Do not over-prune. Do not make flush cuts. Leave the branch collars intact. Do not paint cuts. All of this is artificial and hurts trees.
Insect Pests - In general, control insect pests by encouraging beneficial insects and microbes and spraying with Garrett Juice mixtures. Spray minor outbreaks with plant oil products including orange oil, garlic-pepper tea, and essential oils. Avoid all pyrethrum products, especially those containing piperonyl butoxide (PBO), petroleum distillates and other contaminants.
Soil Amending - Apply compost, rock materials such as lava sand, granite, basalt or zeolite and dry molasses to all planting areas. Use products that introduce and/or stimulate beneficial microbes in the soil.
General Tonic Spray and Soil Drench - Mixture of Garrett Juice and microbe product, or Garrett Juice Pro, which contains bacteria and mycorrhizal fungi.
Potting Soil - Potting soil, as opposed to native soil, loam, dirt, or landscaper’s soil, is what should be used in pots - no matter what the crop. I do not recommend peat moss potting soils. Peat moss is anti-microbial. Microbes don’t grow well in it. That’s just the opposite of what we want. On the other hand, peat moss is excellent for storing bulbs, potatoes or shipping food or other perishable material that would otherwise decay. Potting soil should not be sterile as some recommend, but alive and dynamic. It should be light, loose, well-aerated, fertile, full of microorganisms and have the ability to stimulate quick and sustained growth. My favorite basic ingredients are compost, natural rock minerals, and sugars such as dry molasses and cornmeal.
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