HEIGHT: 6 to 20 feet
SPREAD: 10 to 20 feet
NATURAL HABITAT AND PREFERRED SITE: Japanese maple is native to Japan and China but adapts well to typical garden soils in Texas. It needs moisture and good drainage. Most of these trees prefer filtered light or morning sun with afternoon shade. The green Acer palmatum tends to be able to stand the most direct sun.
FLOWERS AND FRUIT: Flowers of most Japanese maples are insignificant and the bloom effect comes from the unfolding of the colorful new foliage growth in the spring. The fruit is a typical maple samara (winged fruit) appearing in the late summer and fall.
BARK: Ranges tremendously from green through various shades of gray and brown to even red bark on the Acer palmatum ‘Coralbark’.
FOLIAGE: Japanese maple foliage is fascinating. The leaves range tremendously in size, shape and color. Some species have delicate, lacy, deeply cut leaves, and others are almost rounded and some resemble elm leaves. The color varies as much ranging from green to various shades of reds, pinks, oranges, and greens. Some varieties have string like leaves and several all variegated with dramatic combination of colors.
CULTURE: Most varieties of Japanese maple are easy to grow in Texas as long as they are given ample moisture and some protection from the hot afternoon sun. The red leafed varieties are the most susceptible to the foliage edges burning. When this happens there is really not much that can be done other than change the location of the plant. Japanese maples can be grown in pots. One of the best for pots is the A. palmatum disectum. Japanese maple needs a moderate amount of fertilizer.
PROBLEMS: Few other than the scorch of the leaves during the summer. In most cases cold damage is not a worry unless an extremely hard freeze follows a long warm spell and the plant has not had time to harden off.
INSIGHT: Yes, it is an introduced plant but it adapts well into Texas gardens.
QUESTION: I planted a Japanese maple in May of last year. Recently, I noticed damage to the lower trunk of the tree, and I'm not sure what to do. I did find the cause: cats using the tree as a scratching post. I thought about placing chicken wire around the base of the tree to keep the cats away. I'm not sure whether to let the trunk heal on its own or try a remedy of some sort. C.C., Dallas
ANSWER: Chicken wire arranged very loosely around the trunk would be fine as long as you promise to check it frequently to make sure it isn't touching or cutting into the tree. Apply my Tree Trunk Goop to the wound. This is a mixture of equal amounts of compost, soft rock phosphate and natural diatomaceous earth. Add water until the mixture becomes pastelike, and then slather it on the damaged area. Reapply after rain or sprinklers wash it off.
QUESTION: I have a 20-year-old Japanese maple that is showing serious signs of decline. I carefully dug out the soil around the trunk and found that the root flare was covered by 5 or 6 inches of soil. It is now exposed. What happens next? I have never read what to expect with a depression in the ground at the base of a tree. Will the root flare of the tree, if it survives, literally rise up to the correct level? Or will I have a depression around the trunk forever? B.R., Dallas